5 Tips for Visiting One of Greece’s Most Popular Islands — Without the Crowds

We’ve all seen the pictures on our social media feeds: the white roofs, dramatic cliffs, and deep-blue seas of Santorini. What those pictures don’t show — and what is more often than not the reality of visiting this beloved Cycladic island — are the crowds.

The 47-square-mile island, which has around 15,500 year-round residents, is expecting an incredible 3.4 million visitors this season, over 1 million of them day-trippers arriving via cruise ship.

I wanted to find out if it was still possible to visit Santorini without having to fight my way past scores of selfie-takers every time I stepped out of my hotel. The answer was an unequivocal yes — but only if you follow these golden rules.

Timing Is Everything

Most of us want to visit Greece in high summer when the weather is beach-optimal and tourist-facing businesses are up and running. But if you can travel outside of the European school holidays in May, June, or September, you’ll notice the place is significantly less busy. And the weather, while still reliably sunny, won’t be oppressively hot.

Location, Location, Location

The town of Oia has unrivaled views of Santorini’s iconic caldera, but it’s also where the majority of the island’s hotels are located—and where most cruise passengers head to take photos as the sun goes down. As a result, the narrow pathways along Oia’s clifftop are often very crowded in high season, especially in the evenings.

We were based in the town of Imerovigli, across the bay from Oia, but with equally dramatic caldera views. Access is slightly less straightforward, as you have to park above the town and walk to most locations. This means fewer people and a greater sense of space.

Pick Your Perch With Care

We stayed at Grace Hotel, an Auberge Resort Collection — recently voted one of the Top 10 resorts in Greece in Travel + Leisure’s World’s Best Awards. It’s located on the edge of the caldera in Imerovigli and has incredible sunset views. It’s also the lowest property on that part of the cliff, meaning you look straight down to the ocean rather than staring at guests in other hotels.

Something you’ll notice about Santorini is that many older properties offer suites with plunge pools about the size of a typical hot tub. Not so at Grace: Besides a shared, full-sized infinity pool overlooking the ocean, guests in the newly-launched Infinity Suites have their own terrace with a private, infinity-edge plunge pool. (Note that Grace Hotel doesn’t take kids, but families can book the hotel’s stunning two-bedroom villa.)

Get on Your Feet

Driving — especially parking — can be a pain in Santorini: Traffic is often a problem, and cars must take long detours to bypass the town centers. Conversely, walking is a breeze, as the cliffs along the caldera are lined with paved, walkable pathways.

Those searching for bragging rights can tackle the 6-mile Fira to Oia route. I was traveling with my two kids, ages 7 and 11, so we opted for something more manageable: the hike around Skaros Rock, once the site of a Byzantine fortress, and today a craggy, dramatic, but not especially challenging walk from Imerovigli. Just make sure you set off early in the morning or late in the afternoon when temperatures are cooler. And take plenty of water!

Take to the Waves

Santorini isn’t known for its beaches, which is good, as they’re typically not that busy. We spent a day at Seaside, a beach club on the pleasingly crowd-free black sand bay of Perivolos. It’s a Champagne and sushi kind of place, with prices to match, but if you’re looking to spend a few peaceful hours taking dips in the ocean and lounging in a cabana, this is a great option.

For a swim at the opposite end of the luxury spectrum, head to the former fishing village of Ammoudi. Here, you’ll find old-school tavernas lining the seafront in front of spectacular rust-red cliffs (we loved the shrimp and calamari at Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna). After lunch, walk about five minutes along the coastal path next to the restaurant until you reach the secret swimming spot in front of Agios Nikolaos church.