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After more than a decade living and traveling throughout the south of France, I’m still constantly discovering new beaches, tiny towns hiding in the shadow of ritzy resorts, and hiking trails linking the string of medieval villages dotting the Vallée des Merveilles (Valley of Wonders). Every summer, the French Riviera swells with travelers who fill the beaches in Nice, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez, but there’s plenty more to see after you’ve strolled Boulevard de la Croisette and trekked to the hilltop village of Èze. From car-free islands to towns built 2,000 years ago by the Romans, here’s where to go if you want to get off the beaten path and discover a local side of the French Riviera.
Lérins Islands, Cannes
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A 15-minute boat ride from the port in Cannes, sibling islands Sainte-Marguerite and Saint-Honorat dominate the bay. The beaches are entirely different from what you’ll find along La Croisette (think shaded, secluded coves). Boats often post up in the channel between the two islands, where sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor designed the first underwater eco-museum in France and the Mediterranean, with six submerged statues shallow enough to snorkel around. On the larger island of Sainte-Marguerite, make the light hike to Fort Royal, known for its famous former prisoner, the Man in the Iron Mask, or try and snag one of the hardest reservations on the French Riviera — beach restaurant and club La Guérite — and dance into the late afternoon.
Plage Paloma, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
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Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat earned its nickname — the “Peninsula of Billionaires” — thanks to the extravagant mansions and villas crowning what claims to be the most expensive village in the world. While estates like Villa & Jardins Ephrussi de Rothschild are something to ogle at, the nature here is the true attraction. Nearly six miles of footpaths skirt the peninsula’s rugged coastline, leading to hidden coves ideal for cliff jumping and tucked-away beaches like Plage Paloma, which, despite counting celebrity visits by the likes of Sean Connery and Elton John, is one of the most laid-back beach clubs on the Riviera.
Théoule-sur-Mer
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On the edge of the Bay of Cannes, the tiny seaside town of Théoule-sur-Mer was often skipped over in favor of its famous neighbor (Cannes is just a 30-minute drive away), until Château de Théoule opened this year in a former soap factory not far from the late fashion designer Pierre Cardin’s Palais Bulles. Unlike the majority of the French Riviera’s pebble-strewn coast, the small stretch of shoreline here is sandy and framed by the rust-red Massif de l’Estérel mountain range, making it the perfect base for seaside hikes and snorkeling trips in the nearby crystal-clear coves.
Porquerolles, Hyères
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The trio of Porquerolles, Port-Cros, and Le Levant are dubbed Îles d’Or, or Golden Islands. They’re about two hours from Saint-Tropez and scattered off the coast of Hyères, but they have more in common with the Caribbean than their celeb-frequented neighbors. Croissant-shaped Porquerolles is the largest of the three and the most accessible, since it has a few studios and small hotels. A sailboat is the best way to get here — and the best place to sleep, too. Coastal loop trails cut through Aleppo pines on the car-free island, where you can hike or bike to beaches like Plage Notre Dame, which has a reputation of being one of the most beautiful in Europe.
Plage Mala, Cap-d’Ail
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Travelers flock in droves to the see-and-be-seen beach clubs in Saint-Tropez and Cannes, but Plage Mala’s cobalt- and emerald-colored water easily rivals the Maldives — and lacks the crowds. The entrance to Cap-d’Ail’s cove is as dramatic as the surrounding cliffs encasing the pebble beach. You’ll need to prepare for a light trek down winding steps, but once you reach the shore, you’ll see why the effort was worth it. Book one of the ink-black beach beds at local favorite Eden Plage Mala (one of two private beaches here) and spend the afternoon sipping local rosé or cruising to the nearby sea caves by pedal boat.
Vence
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Most visitors make it up to the walled medieval town of Saint-Paul-de-Vence without realizing the beautifully preserved fortified village of Vence is just 15 minutes away by car — and a lot less overrun by tourists. Plus, some of the same artists whose work can be found in Saint-Paul also left their touch on Vence. For example, there’s former resident Marc Chagall’s mosaic of Moses in the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de la Nativité (the smallest cathedral in France) and Henri Matisse’s blue tile-topped Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence, which the painter considered to be his masterpiece.
Juan-les-Pins, Cap d’Antibes
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The rocky peninsula of Cap d’Antibes and the resort town of Juan-les-Pins have been immortalized by photographer Slim Aarons thanks to ultra-luxe Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc‘s iconic saltwater pool suspended over the Mediterranean. Here, visitors can also find the 1920s, art deco-style Hôtel Belles Rives, which is the villa where F. Scott Fitzgerald started “Tender is the Night.” On the weekends, you can spot locals cycling around the area, enjoying lunch with lighthouse views at Le Bistrot du Curé or shopping for local produce at the traditional market in nearby Antibes. The nature in Juan-les-Pins is on the more untamed side, making the peninsula’s long stretch of white, sandy beaches with their crochet parasols all the more appealing.
La Turbie
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Named after the Trophy of Augustus, a Roman monument built in 6 B.C. to celebrate the empire’s victory over local tribes, La Turbie sits near the Italian border above Monaco. Today, you can still see remnants of the ruins, but the real reason to make it up to La Turbie is for the panoramic views of the Riviera (which span from Italy to the Massif de l’Esterel mountain range) at Tête de Chien promontory, one of the highest viewpoints in the region. After you soak in the vistas, hike down to the coast or cycle into town for coffee. Le Café de la Fontaine, in the center of La Turbie, is worth the detour for its hearty, market-fresh French bistro fare.
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