One could easily spend months in Japan without tiring of its energy, beauty, and outstanding food. However, most can’t linger endlessly abroad and have to work within the confines of vacation days, and we had to stick to a Spring break calendar – otherwise, we could have stayed much longer.
We spent three nights in Tokyo, one night in Hakone, two nights in Kyoto, and two more nights in Tokyo. Although we would have chosen to stay much longer if we could, eight nights were a good sample taste for our first Japan visit.
My best tip is to arrange luggage storage with Yamato through your hotel. Check in an empty suitcase, do loads of shopping in Tokyo, have your filled suitcase sent to the airport for the week while you travel through the country, allowing you the freedom of easily moving around with carry-ons only. Then pick up your suitcase at the airport before heading home. Finally, make sure to have your passport on you at all times to take advantage of the tax-free shopping.
You’ll love this modern hotel in the heart of Ginza. Attention to detail lurks at every opportunity, from luxury facial products in the guest rooms to complimentary pajama sets left on your beds. For families, booking a room here is easy—rooms fit up to three full-size mattresses for those with multiple children. The staff is professional and speaks English well, the hotel-made coffee is amazing, and the lobby restaurant serves delicious food that captures both Japanese and American flavors.
On our first night, we checked in around 6:30 p.m. and were exhausted from a long journey. Having a wonderful dining option in our hotel made life so easy. You will love the fresh ingredients used in the kitchen. Our highlights were the cauliflower steak and the Japanese black beef sirloin steak, which were prepared to the highest standards.
After loading up on fuel over a decadent breakfast at Wald Haus, put on your most comfortable walking shoes and get ready to get to know Tokyo and its different neighborhoods on foot.
This vast park in the heart of the hustle and bustle of the city takes you away from the skyscrapers and bright lights to tuck you into nature. During the spring, thousands of people flock to this large park in Shibuya to gaze at the stunning cherry blossoms while they are in season. However, an even bigger attraction in the park is the Meiji Jingu Temple, which dates back to 1920. Pictures of the heavily gold-accented ceremony hall are forbidden, but praying while facing the opulent edifice is welcome!
2: Explore the City on Foot
From Yoyogi Park, continue walking into the Shibuya neighborhood of Tokyo to soak in its trademark neon signs, jam-packed streets, endless shopping experiences, and a fast-paced energy that puts NYC to shame. Just stroll the sidewalks and spontaneously enter the shops and alleys that call your name. Some turns will bring delightful surprises like unexpected cherry blossoms and shrines.
This mega department store is not for the faint-hearted. All levels of the shop are overly-stimulating with loud music, flashing lights, and an endless array of everything Japanese. Our teens loved checking out the kitschy packaging, trying to decipher what was inside the appealing wrapping, and loading up on some Japanese specialty snacks. For the grownups, we felt like we were at a brunch party at Bagatelle’s without the table service. Be prepared to snatch some of Japan’s best-known beauty products for half the price it would cost in the USA.
4: Heaven in 7-Eleven (Shibuya)
When we heard that eating an egg sandwich from a 7-Eleven in Tokyo is a must, we became instantly curious. The USA locations of this chain are not exactly foodie destinations. In Japan, they are. The buzz is worth the hype; grab an egg sandwich between your explorations to help replenish all those burnt calories from walking endless miles a day.
5: Be prepared to be Tight on Takeshita Street (Harajuku)
The Harajuku area of Tokyo is known for its youthful energy, packed with vintage clothing shops, cosplay shops, loads of dining options, and most notably, sensory overload. Takeshita Street is a pedestrian-only street that draws extremely large crowds. Get ready for sidewalk-lined cafes that allow customers to spend time with their in-house animals; anything from otters, capybaras, pigs, and Samoyeds, or just plan to soak in all the activity around you as you slowly make your way down the closed-off street. Make sure to look out for the Harajuku Girls, who celebrate their self-exploration through unique and colorful fashion styles- you’ll know it’s them once you see them.
6: Stop for a Sweet Delight in Yurinan (Harajuku)
I normally don’t do lines, but you’ll quickly learn that in Tokyo, lines are ubiquitous and unavoidable. For a quick reprieve from the crowded street of Takeshita Street, a homemade dorayaki (a Japanese confection made with bean paste and a variety of stuffings) and iced drinks are a perfect excuse to wait in a fast-moving line. You’ll love their fresh iced matcha latte and dorayaki stuffed with chocolate cream and strawberries. Yum.
Once you’ve survived the sardine-tight sensory overload of Taskeshita Street, keep on walking to the less-frequented Cat Street, dotted with high-end boutiques and tiny restaurants that deliver big flavors. Although Takeshita Street is a must, Cat Street is way more my style. All this walking will surely make you hungry, and before you know it, you’ll be ready to replenish calories again. We stumbled upon this miniscule udon shop where diners stood shoulder-to-shoulder while slurping away on a very memorable bowl of noodles.
8: Have a Hoot at the Owl Cafe (Akibafukurou)
I’m not sure if this is supposed to be a funny experience, but I can tell you that my family got plagued with the most serious case of giggles from the moment we walked in to the second we walked out. You may consider booking a private experience too, in case your family also finds itself laughing uncontrollably. Dozens of owls of all sizes and species are waiting to hang out on your shoulders or arms and gaze into your eyes. You’ll never get to stare into their gorgeous eyes as closely as you do here. It’s a worthwhile opportunity- please let me know if your family found the training session, quiet zone, and the owl operator’s scratched-up arms as hilarious as we did.
9: Get lost in the Sights & Sounds of Akihabara
Akihabara is known for its electronics and die-hard anime culture. This futuristic section of Tokyo drew us in twice in one day. The bustling energy, the flashing lights, the colorful storefronts, the video arcades, and the infinite stores packed with everything anime will bring you a whole new flavor to Tokyo’s many personalities. I suggest arriving at this part of the city at dusk when the bright lights start to work their magic, and then again at night to see the neighborhood once it is blindingly bright.
Monk food is a traditional Buddhist preparation of vegetarian food that emphasizes simplicity and fresh ingredients to create a mindful meal. Fucha Ryori Bon creates a zenful voyage from the moment you are escorted into a private room and asked to keep your shoes outside. A twelve-course journey of teas, soups, and creatively made vegetable dishes awaits your tastebuds. Although some dishes were more popular than others, overall, this is a worthwhile adventure.
By now, you’re surely exhausted after logging tens of thousands of steps in just one day. There is so much to see, eat, and do in Tokyo, so before calling it a day, check out the cone-shaped wrapped crepes at Smiley Crepes in Akihabara and do your best to walk a few more stretches of sidewalks to admire Akihabara and its bright lights at night before you say goodnight.
1: Bounce Back after a Goodnight’s Sleep with Breakfast at the Four Seasons
Sezanne at the Four Seasons pumps out a mean breakfast with a bountiful buffet, freshly baked croissant basket, and your choice of an American or Japanese breakfast with cooked fish, rice, Japanese pickles, and miso soup. Enjoy your meal overlooking the non-stop activity at the Tokyo Station below.
3: Explore the Chiyoda District
You’ll admire this part of Tokyo for its cleanliness, parks, fine dining, and the striking Imperial Palace that draws lots of tourists.
This breathtaking chocolate shop is more of a gallery of chocolate masterpieces. It’s hard to decide which elegant box to splurge on, but you won’t be disappointed with whatever you choose. We opted for the “sparkling wine” that lasted us throughout the trip.
4: Shop Till You Drop in Ginza
Ginza was our favorite shopping destination in Tokyo. The side streets are full of luxury brands, and the main street, Chuo-dori, is also lined with never-ending designer shops, an incredibly beautiful department store, Ginza 6, and few crowds, so you can shop in peace. Make sure to bring your passport to save on taxes and look out for the Japan exclusives at most stores so you can go back to the USA with pieces exclusive to Japan.
This tiny sushi shop knocks out unbelievably fresh sushi in all forms – nigiri, sashimi, rolls, etc., all presented in colorful works of art that taste even better than their beautiful presentation.
6: Get an Authentic Taste of Tokyo in Asakusa
One of our favorite neighborhoods in all of Tokyo is Asakusa. There is an authenticity here that is unbeatable. Enter the city through the striking Sensoji Temple and make your way down Nakamise-dori lined with street vendors. Make sure to grab a “war kobi dango”, a Japanese sweet, and stop to have your fortune told at the booth near the temple. There is something magical about Asakusa as rickshaws pass you by, girls in kimonos stroll the streets, cherry blossoms line the sidewalks, and we even spotted a geisha! (while there used to be 80,000 geishas in Japan, there are only 1,000 left of these traditional Japanese entertainers.)
7: River Walk for Cherry Blossoms and Scenery
Just a short walk from Asakusa, you’ll find a quiet retreat from the hustle and bustle. Take a stroll down the Sumida River along Sumida Park and soak in the infinite rows of cherry blossoms and striking architecture.
Roppongi is yet another destination tucked in Tokyo that boasts Shiba Park with Zojoji Temple, tons of cherry blossom trees, and loads of restaurants and retail therapy. It has a strong art culture as well with many museums for art enthusiasts. It’s mainly known as a nightlife destination, although we never made it awake past 10:00 pm with all the full days under our belts.
You’ll be logging more mileage than you’re accustomed to while visiting Tokyo. Stop and rest often. Tokyo Prince Hotel in Rappongi is a great choice to recharge your legs and your cell phones, over a warm cup of coffee or tea.
10: Be Prepared for the Best Wagyu of Your Life
Tucked high on the sixth floor of a building that gets you up only via a minuscule lift, one small enough to turn away anyone who suffers from claustrophobia, Teppanyaki Sumiyaki Saito makes the not-so-fun elevator ride worth every anxious heartbeat. We ordered three cuts of wagyu: tenderloin, chateaubriand, and sirloin- a flight of beef that took our tastebuds on an unbelievable journey. We’re still dreaming about this meal.
11: Take it to the Top of Tokyo Tower
At night, this city landmark glows in changing colors that light up the sky. For just $8, you can take the lift up to the top and enjoy breathtaking views of Tokyo lit up at night.
When your days are packed with non-stop exploring, beginning your day with a full meal is crucial. We loved our breakfasts at Wald Haus, which consistently delivered a delicious main dish along with other yummy options at the buffet.
2: Get Out of Tokyo and Check Out More of Japan
There is so much to discover in Japan, and getting through the country on the Shinkansen (bullet train) makes it all so much easier. On day four, we decided to head to Hakone, known for its hot springs and majestic views of Mt. Fuji.
Madoka No Mori will long live as one of the most memorable hotels we have stayed in. The Ryoken-style hotel is tucked away in a lush escape of natural foliage. Upon arrival, guests are directed to remove their shoes for the entire duration they are on the property. While waiting to check in, staff in kimonos serve guests with welcome drinks and snacks in the minimalistic space. Although rooms have private onsens, the property boasts three public ones along with a decadent spa. This place is heaven,
The rooms are divine, enveloping you in immediate zen as soon as you enter the spacious suites with a separate living room, dining room, bedroom, and large patio with a private onsen. They even have gender based kimonos prepared in advance for guests to enjoy while walking around the property.
3: Linger Over a Lavish Lunch
We asked our driver which restaurant is his favorite for lunch, and he quickly responded, “Itoh by Nobu”. You’ll see why locals choose this as a top choice. The chef exquisitely prepared every dish: octopus sashimi, white asparagus and clam soup, salad with soy vinegar, wagyu sirloin over wasabi sauce, garlic rice, and matcha tiramisu. The food in Japan cannot be beat.
4: Float in the Sky on a Gandola to Lake Ashinoko
Sadly, our visit to Hakone brought lots of rain and clouds, which affected our promised epic views of Mt. Fuji, hot springs below, and an aqua Lake Ashi. Regardless, the ropeway was filled with eager tourists excited to soar through the sky and make their way down to the lake. Your two-day Hakone pass grants you access to the gondola ride and the well-known pirate ship tour on the lake. Spend the extra $5 per person ticket price to upgrade to first class seating (see middle picture) – you can upgrade at the bar once you get on the boat. The extra $5 is a matter of being jammed into general admission like cattle or spreading out in a peaceful, beautiful setting.
5: Immerse Yourself in Art
The Open-Air Museum has over 1,000 art installations spanning over seventeen acres of pristine landscaping. Several pieces are immersive, while others are meant to make you feel. This is one of the best, if not the best, museums I have ever visited.
After exploring Hakone for several hours, we eagerly awaited a dip in our private onsens. What a glorious way to unwind after a long day of sightseeing. After getting ready for dinner in our kimonos, we were escorted to our private dining room to be served ten perfectly prepared courses masterfully comprised of regional ingredients, creating splendid flavors. The attention to detail every step of the way was outstanding, you’ll be wowed the entire culinary journey. Especially notable is the restaurant’s noble status for being the world’s first to prepare wagyu using a hydrogen method. You will have one of your most memorable meals in MADOKANOMORI.
1: Delve into a Traditional Japanese Breakfast
The chef at MADOKANOMORI deserves at least one Michelin star. Deliberate thought goes into every morsel, every bite, and every plate with careful consideration on balancing flavors and the usage of local ingredients. Breakfast was fit for royalty with twenty meticulously prepared Japanese dishes, including bluefin tuna, two cooked fish, tamago, two types of soup, rice, vegetable salad, tofu paste, fruit, steamed vegetables, roe, biscuits, and more than you can consume.
2: Add Seven Years to Your Life
A local delicacy in Hakone is eggs boiled in sulfurous hot springs, causing their shells to turn black. The result is a delicious hard-boiled egg with a subtle smokiness. According to folklore, each egg adds seven years to your life. At the very least, you must try one while visiting.
Some notes on Hakone: Taxis are hard to come by, getting around in general is difficult, and during peak season, public transportation is uncomfortably crowded. In my opinion, twenty-four hours is more than enough time in this stunning landscape during tourist season.
3: Hop Back on a Shinkansen and See More of Japan
Although you don’t necessarily “need” first-class seats for shorter routes during your Japan explorations, I do recommend them for longer legs like Odawara to Kyoto and Kyoto to Tokyo. The extra leg room, food and beverage options, and overall nicer commuting experience are well worth the additional splurge.
4: Check into a Carpentry Luxe Boutique Hotel
Named after the temple across the street, Nazuna Kyoto Higashi Honganji brings the ultimate form of Zen to guests. The Ryokan-style hotel surpasses all expectations with the craftsmanship put into every detail and aspect of the hotel. The woodwork woven through each space is stunning, and the spacious rooms with complimentary stocked fridges and late-night snacks delivered to your room ensure you never need to leave after a long day and can spend the night lounging in the Japanese-inspired pajamas and slippers left for you to enjoy.
Kura Sushi brings lots of laughter and fun to a sushi lunch as a variety of nigiri, sashimi, and specialty rolls zoom past you. Everything is ordered off an iPad and delivered directly to your table on a conveyor belt. Surprisingly, the sushi is delicious.
This is one of the most gorgeous trails to soak in the endless rows of cherry blossom trees that line the long path. Plan to spend at least an hour here walking the main alley filled with shops and street vendors (the candied strawberries are a must!!) and the stunning Sakuras along the river.
Kiyomizu-dera is hands down the most beautiful shrine in Kyoto. Perched on top of a hill, the views are unbeatable and the striking contrasts of the bright structures as the sun sets are just magical.
Walking back from Kiyomizu-dera takes you down many stairs lined with shops and large crowds. As you leave the main area, you’ll quickly be drawn into the authentic vibe of locals in kimonos and Izakayas dotting the sidewalks.
Traveling in Japan with a vegetarian in our group made dining a bit difficult for her. We searched for a well-reviewed restaurant that offers a wide variety of vegetarian options. Boy, was she happy with the results at Hyssop and the carnivores got to enjoy a scrumptious steak as well.
Gion is an extremely lively neighborhood in Kyoto with lots of alleys to discover, unique stores to shop at, and infinite restaurants to dine in. At night, the cherry blossoms light up to wow visitors as they line up to photograph nature’s gorgeous masterpieces. This is a neighborhood not to be missed while visiting Kyoto.
1: Hire a Driver for the Day
Hiring a driver for a day not only makes it easy for you to navigate Kyoto, a rather large city with lots to see in all its corners, but it also provides you with a knowledgeable local who serves as a guide and walks with you through all the sites while sharing useful information. We all fell in love with our guide, Maki San, and feel like we have made a friend for life.
During peak season, make sure to arrive early. We got to the shrine at 7:30 am and it was already quite busy. Fushini Inari is one of Kyoto’s most photographed sites, for good reason. The architecture is breathtaking and the grounds are expansive, packed with many Instagram-worthy angles.
3: Visit a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Kinkaku-ji is another striking temple sitting on a lake that reflects its gold exterior. The picturesque walk around the lake feels like entering a painting.
Our driver and guide for the day, Maki-san told us that his favorite ice-cream and nuts are sold at the temple grounds. He wasn’t kidding! We sampled an assortment of nuts that led us to buy bags of them to bring home, except they were so good that they didn’t last a day. Mamemasa ice cream was creamy and dreamy, and the matcha-vanilla mix was out of this world.
Strolling through the popular bamboo park will remind you of how small you are in the eyes of Mother Nature. The bamboo shoots soar to the sky at an endless height. This is a great spot to stroll in the shade and sow down amongst the greenery.
You’ll be asked to remove your shoes before entering the castle to view meticulously restored rooms that make it easy to imagine how emperors greeted their guests. The touring space is surprisingly large, allowing your imagination to flourish at many opportunities. After the walkthrough, check out the “ponder and stroll” garden beautifully designed with zen landscaping.
Before heading to the parking lot, enjoy a local treat at one of the vendors, like traditional rice dumplings.
6: Ramen Making Class
Making ramen at the Ramen Factory is one of our most memorable experiences in Japan. We learned how to make homemade noodles and made our very own tasty ramen. The class size is small and the staff-to-guest ratio ensures that everything runs smoothly and everyone is tended to.
7: Stroll down the Kamo River in the Kamigyo Ward
Walk off those ramen calories along the Kamo River and enjoy the sights of sakura lining the promenade with mountains hugging the horizon. You’ll find plenty of locals here enjoying the parks and beauty of this special path.
Yum Tea makes a tapioca brown sugar milk boba that is dreamy and decadent. It’s worth every single calorie, and if I could, I would have one every day of my life.
9: Experience a Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony
Dressing in kimonos to partake in a traditional Japanese tea ceremony at Maikoya Nikishi was a highlight of our trip. You’ll be tended to in a private dressing room where Japanese women will do your hair and help you dress in the kimono of your choice. Next, your hostess will greet you and walk you through the tea ceremony.
We loved learning that a tea ceremony is viewed as “one chance, one meeting- once in a lifetime opportunity, knowing this moment never comes again,” and learning that there are four factors in a tea ceremony: harmony, respect, purity, and tranquility.
10: Authentic Local Dinner
This hard-to-find obanzai restaurant is a must when in Kyoto. AOI has a six-person bar and one table for four tightly packed into a tiny space. Rest assured, the non-stop flow of homemade food by the owner, Toshii, and her assistant is filled with big flavors. There is no menu- you let Toshii know upfront about any dietary restrictions and then the food just keeps on coming. Expect salty spring tuna, baked tofu soup, potatoes with anchovies, grilled sweet peppers, beef with spring vegetables, bamboo tempura, fish pickles, tamago, and more.
1: Bounce Back to Sightseeing with a Beautiful, Bountiful Breakfast
The breakfasts in Japan will continuously amaze you. Nazuna Kyoto Higashi Honganji had our table beautifully arranged upon our arrival, delighting our eyes with the colors and presentation of our dishes. We were served a warm miso soup, eggs, and sweet bean paste dessert before our waitress began cooking roasted vegetables and wagyu meat on the open fire built into our table. What a meal!
Across the street from the hotel is yet another striking Buddhist temple. You’ll find shrines and temples all over Kyoto and I encourage you to explore as many as you can. The intricate details in the craftsmanship are quite impressive and each temple has its own unique design.
3: Recaffeinate at Coffee Shop
Ueshima Coffee will provide the caffeine kick you’ll need for a full day of sightseeing. Although they do not serve espresso drinks, their coffee is very well-made and the cafe is a well-designed escape to rest your legs.
4: Lunch Like Never Before
Food in Japan is unbelievably good, and somehow our meals just kept getting better and better. At Kobe Beef Steak Mouriya you’ll be seated at a counter with your personal dedicated hibachi chef who will cook right before your eyes. Be prepared for a lunch experience like no other and Kobe that will leave you planning your next trip to Kyoto.
5: Return to Tokyo to Wrap Up Your Vacation
Prince Sakura Towers is a large, upscale hotel with gorgeous gardens and attention to detail like English newspaper delivery, luxury bath amenities, plush robes, turn-down service, and complimentary snacks in the Shinagawa neighborhood, within walking distance to the train station.
6: Splurge on Sensational Sushi
Sushi Korin seats ten at the counter and a small group in the private room, serving twenty-five courses to omakase enthusiasts! Chef Masamoto and his wife, Iko, make for a fun ambience while delivering nothing short of excellence.
1: Eat Like the Locals, Sushi for Breakfast
I wasn’t sure about eating sushi for breakfast but when in Rome... I mean Japan…We headed to the Toyosu Fish Market first thing in the morning and decided on Sushi Dokoro Sei for our first meal of the day. $25 per person gets you nine pieces of nigiri, two rolls, miso soup, green tea, and a very satisfying start to your day. The fish was so fresh, it melted in our mouths. This truly was a breakfast for champions.
2: Take a Trippy Ride in Your Imagination
Team Lab, Borderless is a magical wonderland for all ages. Be prepared to get lost in this immersive experience full of artwork that stimulates all senses. Buy your tickets in advance.
3: Window Shop in the Upscale Azabudai Hills
This expansive, upscale mall hosts retail shops like Celine and Dior along with museum-like bakeries and eye-catching restaurants. Take a sweet break at Sembikiya, which serves perfect parfaits.
4: Regroup and Relax Amongst Sakura
Prince Sakura Tower Hotel has stunning gardens lined with cherry blossom trees, a perfect retreat from the busy city streets.
5: Play the Role of a Tourist with a Sumo Show
Asakusa Sumo Stable delivers a fun, entertaining sumo and geisha experience with an all-you-can-eat lunch ring side. You’ll have a blast watching the wrestlers in action!
6: Explore the city on Foot
Walk through the lively Ebisu section of Tokyo and enjoy both Japanese and American bites. Yes, you’ll eat your way through Tokyo, which has more restaurants per capita than anywhere in the world. Donuts at Jack in the Donuts and burgers at Shake Shack are perfect palate pleasers.
7: Celebrate Your Last Night at a Michelin Star Restaurant
Be prepared for a sensational dining experience at CYCLE, which combines an outstanding combination of French-Japanese ingredients in an ambience that will delight your senses with elements of nature, like fresh flowers and tree barks in each course. Despite its Michelin status, there is a casual vibe, and we did not feel out of place in our athletic leisure attire.
8: Relish the Lit Up Garden at the Prince Sakura Tower Hotel
While the gardens are spectacular during the day, they are even more magical at night when everything is lit up. Walking through is a perfect way to unwind before calling it a day.
1: Enjoy an American Breakfast as You Head Back to America
Although nothing beats a traditional Japanese breakfast, an American-style buffet at the hotel was a welcome change. Eggs benedict and fried eggs with pastries, and even gnocchi, prepared us for our journey back home.
2: Load Up on Japanese Beauty Products
Make one more stop at Don Quijote to stock up on discounted cult beauty products that go viral on TikTok. We couldn’t resist filling our baskets with well-priced, well-reviewed hair and face products that will last us through the year and ensure we return to Tokyo to stock up again once we run out.
If you haven’t visited Japan yet, add it to your list asap. It is truly a spectacular country with friendly locals who mostly speak English. The food is some of the best in the world, and we found Tokyo to be a much more civilized version of New York City, with no litter, no crime, no homelessness, and very orderly crowds. With direct flights out of San Diego, we plan to return again hopefully sooner than later! Arigato Japan!
