Want to Visit America’s Most Popular National Park Without the Crowds? This Hotel Has a Private Entrance

As a food and travel writer who lives in the heart of eternally buzzing Manhattan, it’s safe to say that I don’t “turn off” very often. And New York City, with its abundance of stimulation, is not exactly the ideal spot to chase a moment of zen. As I’ve learned over many years of traveling, to unplug, you need to head to a place that encourages you to do so. This is how I found myself a few months ago, slowly winding up a quiet, leafy road in the middle of the Great Smoky Mountains, nose pressed to the car’s window and on my way to explore The Swag.

The tranquil spread is a far cry from skyscrapers and sirens, just what this frazzled New Yorker needed. Perched 5,000 feet above sea level (it’s the highest boutique hotel on the East Coast) and just 25 feet from a private entrance to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, there are few properties I’ve visited with a more unspoiled, magical view than this one. Evergreens frame the hotel’s collection of rustic, wood-clad cabins while views of the North Carolina backcountry and mountaintops tumble out in front of you seemingly endlessly (on a clear day, it’s 50 miles).

It is this mix of quiet splendor and charming, pampering rooms that has lured guests to this pocket of the Blue Ridge Mountains since 1982, when Dan and Deener Matthews founded the property. And in fact, I met many guests during the nightly communal cocktail hour who had been visiting The Swag for decades. Since those early days, the hotel has blossomed to include standalone cabins, an ample outdoor dining porch, and a spa. But it rose to national prominence when current owners Annie and David Colquitt took over in 2018, and even more so when they received a coveted Relais & Châteaux designation in 2020.

Today, a visit here can be as active as an all-day hike through the Smokies or as chill as a long soak in the picturesque hot tub followed by a detoxifying mud wrap at the spa (I conquered both, for what it’s worth). But regardless of how you choose to spend your days here, what permeates every inch of the property, from your Polaroid photo at check-in to bonding with guests over tricky Stave puzzles, is a sense of community.

“It’s different from other hotels in that we have one dinner seating; there’s a communal hors-d’oeuvres hour,” says owner Annie Colquitt. “It feels more like you’re being hosted in somebody’s home, to a certain extent, than a traditional hotel.” Colquitt told me it’s not uncommon for guests to meet during a hike and bond so fully that both parties come back together the following year. Indeed, by the end of my stay, I’d chatted with nearly everyone on the property, whether during a cocktail-making class or a friendly round of trivia.

A little more on that Polaroid, too: They actually take two photos, one for you to keep and one that goes into a book of hotel guests. All volumes, dated back to 1982, are on display at the Swag House for you to look over so you can see how you, too, fit into the shared history of The Swag.

Read on for my full review of The Swag in Waynesville, North Carolina.

The Rooms

The Swag has 18 uniquely designed rooms in the historic Swag House and Chestnut Lodge, along with seven cabins and suites. An entry-level offering like Danny’s Room starts at $875 a night and is outfitted with a beamed, vaulted ceiling and steam shower. At the top end, Trinity Cottage, with rates from $2,100 a night, boasts a 22-foot stone fireplace, three primary suites, and a private soaking tub on the upstairs balcony. All rooms also feature a small fridge stocked with soft drinks, trail mix, and hiking bars that are free to take.

Food and Drink

One of the major draws of the hotel is its culinary program, and, as an all-inclusive, all of your meals are included in the daily rate. Menus here change daily, depending on the season, but a typical breakfast could consist of made-to-order omelets or traditional, stone-ground Southern-style grits.

Lunch is a more casual — yet no less delicious — affair: During the week, you place an order the night before for your brown bag lunch, while on weekends, bring the chef’s picnic served on top of scenic Gooseberry Knob. And come hungry for dinner, which starts with a social hour to mingle with other guests before the dinner bell rings for a four-course meal of elevated Southern cuisine.

Activities and Experiences

While the (literal) biggest draw here is the hotel’s proximity to the National Park, The Swag also offers much to do on the property.

One of its most unique features is its Expert-in-Residence program, which brings anyone from retired park rangers to artists on-site to host informal chats with guests. Other programming veers, naturally, toward the outdoors, with options like horseback riding, badminton and croquet, yoga, and hiking, but there are also organized wine tastings on Tuesdays and Fridays. Indoor perks include a small gym, library, and a large selection of infamously difficult Stave puzzles.

The Spa

On-site spa The Still offers a small but mighty menu of services. Guests can choose from customized massages ranging in length from 30 to 90 minutes, detoxifying mud wraps, a variety of facials, including one specifically for men, and even an hour-long foot massage that includes a salt scrub and hot towel wraps. In the warmer months, you can also sign up for The Still in the Woods, a treatment that consists of an herbal foot soak and a custom massage.

Family-friendly Offerings

The Swag helpfully designates which rooms are appropriate for kids under six and which are better left to older guests. The seven cabins and suites are the best option if you’re traveling with small children. The Mountain Laurel Room, for example, is a two-bed, two-bath cabin that even has its own family game room.

And while there is no specific kids’ program here, the whole family can participate in plenty of activities, like hikes through the National Park, horseback riding (for ages 8 and up), and a pond complete with a rope swing. Don’t miss the on-site treehouse either, perfect for an afternoon coloring session. Meal-wise, the kitchen staff is used to tiny diners’ requests, but if all else fails, there’s also an outside cooler always stocked with snacks and ice cream.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Deener’s Room, the Swag’s handicap-accessible room has a king bed, private balcony, and handicap-accessible bathroom features. It’s also an easy walk or roll to the hotel’s main dining room. Many other rooms may be accommodating based on needs: A call to guest services can guide you on the best space.

Sustainability is also an essential pillar of The Swag’s ethos. The kitchen prioritizes growing as much produce on-site as possible, aided by a newly expanded culinary-use garden. The chefs also forage on the hotel’s grounds while practicing sustainable methods to encourage continued growth. Other items, like coffee and the East Fork Pottery dishware, are intentionally sourced in the Western North Carolina area to keep the carbon footprint low.

Location

While The Swag feels remote, it’s within driving distance of many Southern cities, including Knoxville, Charlotte, and Atlanta. If you’re flying in, the closest airport is Asheville (about a 45-minute drive), which American, Delta, United, and Allegiant Airlines service. The hotel can recommend transport options from there to the property, or renting a car on-site is easy enough.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

The Swag’s current partners are Andrew Harper and Relais & Châteaux. Both members will receive a welcome cheese and charcuterie board upon arrival and can schedule a private wine tasting.