[Author’s Note: This column was originally published in June of 2013, and over the past 11 years, a few things have changed at Western States 100. Ahead of the 2024 race edition, we’re publishing a new, updated Obsessive’s Description of the Western States 100 course.]
Over the years, I’ve coached dozens of runners in their quests to complete the Western States 100, volunteered at the race numerous times, and have 10 finishes of my own. This is all to say that I’m one of those people who knows the Western States 100 course somewhat obsessively. What follows is my course description, divided into four sections and following a Kerouac-esque stream of consciousness. Enjoy!
Olympic Valley to Robinson Flat
Leaving Olympic Valley, California, you will get caught up in the moment and run up the fire road quickly for a quarter mile or so. Shortly thereafter, literally a half mile into the race, you should settle into a strong powerhike.
On the climb up to the Escarpment, there are a few runnable sections, but they are brief. Concentrate on keeping a steady hiking rhythm up the climb to the chairlift that is at the base of the steep scramble up the actual Escarpment. Once you’ve crested this, it’s about a three-minute powerhike to the top of the Palisades Tahoe ski area and the race’s high point. Enjoy this section, and be sure to turn around to check out the view. I even did that in 2005 when I finished second.
Zoë Rom (right) and Leah Yingling climbing up to the Escarpment at the 2022 Western States 100. Photo: Tony DiPasquale
After cresting the summit, get onto singletrack and for more or less the next seven miles to Lyon Ridge. You roll along a ridgeline that requires you to run some and walk some. My strong advice here is to gently run the flats, aggressively run the downs, and hike the ups. One caveat to this is that if you get caught behind a conga line that is going slower than you feel like you’d like to go, try to get around it. Also, keep a close eye out for the course markings through this section, as there are places when the trail is braided, and you can go slightly off course. Nothing major, but it can be annoying.
After the Lyon Ridge aid station (mile 10.3), the terrain becomes more predictable, and it’s about half run/half walk to the Red Star Ridge aid station (mile 15.8).
Scenery along Red Star Ridge, on the Western States 100 course. Photo: iRunFar
From Red Star, begin a grinding two-mile climb that is mostly hiking. This is followed by a nice, rolling singletrack section that gradually descends to the Duncan Canyon aid station. This is a good section to open the legs a bit, as it’s the first of what will be many long, sustained downhills on the day.
When you hit Duncan Canyon Aid, you’ll be at mile 24.4 and have a 2.5-mile descent to Duncan Creek. This is another good descent where it’s worth stretching the legs a bit, and it will also be the first place where you’ll get a good idea of what kind of heat the day has in store. Ever since the 2001 Star Fire, this has been exposed and hot.
The Duncan Canyon aid station is a welcome reprieve in the high country. Photo: iRunFar/Meghan Hicks
After crossing Duncan Creek, which can be pretty deep and some years has a rope to assist you across it, begin the long, gradual four-mile climb up to Robinson Flat. To be honest, there is not much runnable here until the last mile or so, and you’re better off giving away some time here that you can make up later. I used to get passed on this climb and eventually pass the people back in the canyons later.
The last mile into the Robinson Flat aid station (mile 30.3) is a bit flatter, and it’s fun because tons of people are out there. Plus, you get to see your crew.
Adam Peterman at Robinson Flat during the 2022 Western States 100, on his way to winning the men’s race. Photo: iRunFar/Bryon Powell
Robinson Flat to Foresthill
Leaving the Robinson Flat aid station, the trail climbs about a mile through nice forest up the flank of Little Bald Mountain. At the top, you turn right at a key — and usually well-marked — intersection where you begin the long, steady descent to the Miller’s Defeat aid station (mile 34.4). The trail through here is a blend of singletrack and old fire road. Since this is the first section of the race that traverses the south side of a ridgeline, you will likely get an indication of the heat on tap for the day.
From the Miller’s Defeat aid station, the trail ducks into a more forested singletrack trail before popping out onto a wider, dustier trail leading downhill into the Dusty Corners aid station (mile 38). Dusty Corners is a good place to fuel up, and it’s worth taking an extra minute here to sponge off before heading out onto the Pucker Point Trail — especially if it’s hot.
Jim Walmsley at the Dusty Corners aid station in 2019, with its namesake dust in the background. Walmsley went on to set a course record of 14:09:28 that year. Photo: iRunFar/Meghan Hicks
This is an absolutely beautiful section with views to Screwauger Canyon to the right and long sight lines down to Deadwood Canyon, your next objective. After a short uphill, which comes after a nice, steady downhill, the trail pops out onto a dirt road and descends another half mile into the Last Chance aid station (mile 43.3).
This is the jumping-off point for the traverse of Deadwood Canyon and a good time to assess your condition. Be sure to top off all of your fluids, as the four-mile stretch from here to Devil’s Thumb will likely take over an hour.
Ida Nilsson resupplying in Dusty Corners in 2023. Photo: iRunFar/Meghan Hicks
I divide the descent into Deadwood Canyon into two parts. First, the descent is gradual on a rutty, old fire road, passing old mining equipment and dropping to Pacific Slab Mine. Then, after a left-hand turn onto narrow singletrack, the trail drops precipitously over the next mile to the swinging bridge at the bottom of the canyon. The trail is generally in great shape here, and the descent is fun. However, take care not to overstride, as it is still early, and you want to keep your quads intact.
It’s in this section that you’ll see the effects of the 2013 American Fire, as well as the remarkable trail restoration efforts of dozens of volunteers in the years that followed.
After bouncing across the swinging bridge (literally), there is a quarter-mile flat part that ends at a spring coming off the canyon wall. This water is potable, and I always top off my bottles here. Also, it’s worth a bit of extra time to dunk in the spring, or at least soak your running hat or shirt, as the hot, 1,800-foot climb to Devil’s Thumb comes next.
This notorious climb is just under two miles and consists of 36 switchbacks up the canyon wall. Just about all of it is a powerhike, and I strongly suggest settling into a good hiking rhythm through here and just getting it done. About halfway up the climb, there is a particularly steep section. You can usually hear the aid station from about a quarter mile away, and it is a good incentive to keep plodding away. Make sure to steal a look at the Devil’s Thumb rock outcropping itself.
The aid station at Devil’s Thumb (mile 47.8) is one of the best on the course. Dennis Zilaff and his team have been running this station for years, and they have everything you need to recover from the heinous climb you’ve just completed. Take time here to eat, drink, and recover before descending into the next canyon, El Dorado.
This descent is a bit more gradual than the downhill into Deadwood and much longer. In fact, at just under five miles, it’s one of the longest downhills on the course, and it will really test the quads. When you pass the Deadwood Cemetery, you’re about a third of the way down the descent, and the trail steepens over the last mile to the river.
This is the area where you’ll begin to experience the effects of the region’s most recent wildfire, the 2022 Mosquito Fire. This fire burned through roughly 20 miles of the Western States Trail, as well as through the village of Michigan Bluff and up to the edge of the town of Foresthill. The Mosquito Fire left a mark on the area, and the race course, that will last for decades to come.
The entrance of the Deadwood Cemetery pictured in early 2022 before this area was burned by the Mosquito Fire. Photo: iRunFar
You can usually hear the rushing water of the creek about a half mile before the bottom and feel the canyon’s heat. El Dorado Creek aid station (mile 52.9) is just after you cross the bridge at the bottom of the canyon. This is usually the hottest point on the course, and they often have a thermometer out so you can see for yourself! Cool off here and top off your bottles, but do not stay long.
This climb up to the old mining town of Michigan Bluff starts out steep but gradually levels out toward the top. I suggest powerhiking most of the first half of the climb and then roll into a few jogging parts as you near the top. The Mosquito Fire has rendered much of this climb shadeless and exposed, so take care of yourself here.
Tom Evans (back) and Dakota Jones locked in a duel climbing to Michigan Bluff during the 2023 Western States 100. The burned trees of the 2022 Mosquito Fire are visible. Photo: iRunFar/Jaja Ferrer Capili
The trail pops out of the singletrack onto a rutted dirt road about a half mile before the Michigan Bluff aid station (mile 55.7) and you can return to running here. The run into Michigan Bluff is triumphant! You are through two canyons, you can see your crew, and it feels like you are back in civilization. There is a great medical team here, so if you have any issues, deal with them now. Also, be sure to top off on calories and fluids as you have one more canyon to go.
Volcano Canyon has three distinct sections: the dirt road out of town, the singletrack through the canyon, and the paved Bath Road climb. Take each of these sections as their own entities and you’ll be fine. Toward the bottom of the canyon, once again, the trail steepens. There is also a lot of exposure to the sun in this area as a result of the Mosquito Fire.
At the creek crossing, be sure to douse yourself and cool off a bit before the climb to Foresthill. The paved climb up Bath Road is a good mix of walking and running before hitting Foresthill Road and the gradual downhill into the Foresthill aid station (mile 62).
Tyler Green opening up his stride coming into Foresthill. He took second in the 2023 Western States 100. Photo: iRunFar/Meghan Hicks
Foresthill to the Rucky Chucky River Crossing
After the joyous run through Foresthill, where you can see your crew, re-fuel, and pick up a pacer, you will begin the descent into the American River Canyon, on the infamous California Street. This 16-mile section of the race is one of the most important and deceiving sections of the course. Indeed, it is all downhill, except for the uphill parts, and these climbs along the way make this the crux of the race.
The runners and crowds of Foresthill at the 2019 Western States 100. Photo: Michael Lebowitz
Leaving Foresthill, descend precipitously to the Cal 1 aid station (mile 65.7), aka Dardanelles. This 2.9-mile stretch has very few flat parts and only one short climb. When you cross Dardanelles Creek, you have between nine and 10 minutes to the aid station. Leaving Cal 1, you have a third of a mile of flat before beginning a short but steep and exposed climb. This is a good place to take a gel and powerhike.
Cresting this hill, it’s about 1.7 miles of relatively flat terrain before beginning the “rollers,” a series of 15 short climbs that will kick you in the teeth if you’re not ready for them. If you’re not too brain-dead, you can count these rollers, and when you get to the “red roller,” so named because the soil is red, you have only one more before you hit the “elevator shaft.” This is a 0.3-mile steep descent on the rugged trail that can drain the quads out of just about anyone. In 2005, I passed Vincent Delebarre here as he was walking backward!
Once you bottom out of the shaft, you have less than five minutes of nice runnable terrain to the Cal 2 aid station (mile 70.7), also known as Peachstone. Take a minute at Cal 2 to re-fuel and get situated before beginning another switchbacking descent on smooth singletrack. This descent abruptly ends about 1.5 miles out of the aid station at “six-minute hill,” a grinding climb on a fire road that can be tough if you’re not ready. After cresting the hill, you have a five-minute downhill to the Cal 3 aid station (mile 73), also called Ford’s Bar.
Leaving Cal 3, it’s five miles to the Rucky Chucky crossing of the American River. Don’t be misled by the sound of the river to your left. You still have a ways to go and several short but steep ascents on the way to the crossing. The singletrack trail gives way to a fire road about 1.5 miles before the river crossing, and you have one last grinding climb after going around a gate before descending to the Rucky Chucky aid station (mile 78).
Here, re-fuel, hobble down, and cross the river. You may need to take a boat or cross using a hand line, depending on the river’s level. Once on the other side, dunk in the restorative waters of the American River and begin the two-mile climb up to the Green Gate aid station (mile 79.8).
Ruth Croft at the Rucky Chucky river crossing during the 2022 Western States 100, en route to winning the race. Photo: iRunFar/Bryon Powell
The Rucky Chucky river crossing during the 2023 Western States 100, a year when boats were used to cross the river. Photo: iRunFar/Meghan Hicks
The River to the Finish
One of the oft-spoken truisms about the Western States 100 course is that the last 20 miles contain the most runnable terrain. And, the most oft-spoken advice is to save your legs so that you can actually run some of this runnable terrain. Therefore, if you’ve done a decent job of preserving your legs and some energy, this is a great place to run.
Ellie Greenwood with her crew during the 2012 Western States 100, arriving to the Green Gate aid station after running and powerhiking up from the river. She set a course record that year, which stood until it was reset by Courtney Dauwalter in 2023. Photo: iRunFar
After the two-mile powerhike up from the river to the Green Gate aid station, begin a five-mile section to the Auburn Lakes Trails aid station (mile 85.2). This is an excellent trail with a few bumps along the way and two relatively sustained climbs. You’ll have two short, grinding climbs out of creeks en route to the aid station.
Once you pass a small memorial on your left, created for a woman who was attacked and killed by a mountain lion here back in 1994 while out on a training run, you have about one mile to go to the Auburn Lakes Trails aid station. This large aid station has medical support, drop bags, and hot food. If you’re feeling a little down here, this is not a bad place to spend a few minutes regrouping with soup, perhaps some solid food, and fluids. The crew here is experienced and very friendly, and it helps to be in a good mood before leaving on the five-mile section to Quarry Road.
The trail to Quarry Road is, quite literally, all runnable. If you were out here on a 20-mile training run, you would easily run the whole thing. But, alas, you are not. Therefore, on this section, it is important to stay focused and run as much of the trail as you can. While the little rollers may seem like mountains after 85 miles, you can and should run them.
Rolling into Quarry Road aid station (mile 90.7), which is staffed by the good folks from Rogue Valley Runners, including two-time Western States 100 champ Hal Koerner, you should feel tired but satisfied.
You leave Quarry Road on a smooth fire road that parallels the American River for about 1.5 miles before jumping back onto singletrack for the 1.5-mile climb to the Highway 49 crossing at mile 93.5. This turn became infamous in recent race lore when, in 2016, Jim Walmsley missed the turn onto singletrack while leading the race at under-course-record pace.
At Highway 49, you’ll certainly begin smelling the barn. There is a small team of volunteers here at the road crossing to cheer you on for the last 0.8-mile climb to the Pointed Rocks aid station (mile 94.3) located in the Cool Meadow, one of my favorite parts of the course.
The singletrack across Cool Meadow, coming into the Pointed Rocks aid station on the Western States 100 course. Photo: iRunFar
Leaving Pointed Rocks, begin a gradual 2.7-mile descent to the iconic No Hands Bridge (mile 96.5). When you get to a point where you can see and hear the traffic going to and from Cool Meadow on Highway 49, you have about a mile left to the bridge. When the trail opens into a large meadow looking down on the American River’s confluence, it’s about five minutes to the bridge. Stay focused and run these downhills as assertively as you can.
No Hands Bridge waiting for runners during the 2023 Western States 100. Photo: iRunFar
After crossing No Hands Bridge, begin what is at first a gradual climb up to Robie Point. After a mile or so of gentle climbing, the grade steepens and crosses two creeks. When the singletrack pops out onto a fire road, you have less than a quarter mile to the top.
You’ll hear and see the folks up at the Robie Point aid station (mile 98.9), and when you go around the gate and onto the paved roads on the outskirts of Auburn, California, you have 1.3 miles left to the finish. The first third of a mile is a grinding climb up the road that crests at a house that usually has a party going on with a sign saying “Mile 99.”
Spectators await runners on the last mile to the finish line in Auburn, California. Those living on the route bring chairs and couches out, and many stay awake to cheer all night long. Photo: Michael Lebowitz
From here, wind downhill on city streets before crossing the white bridge and making a left downhill to Placer High School. You’ll see the light towers from the track, so you’ll know you’re close. Enter the track and enjoy the most amazing 250-meter jog you’ve ever had.
Bottoms up!
Courtney Dauwalter setting a new course record of 15:29:33 at the 2023 Western States 100. Photo: iRunFar/Meghan Hicks
AJW’s Beer of the Week
This week’s Beer of the Week comes from The Good Wolf in Truckee, California. Known for their “Forest Beers,” which are produced with ingredients sourced from the local forests, Good Wolf’s The Tree That Splits the Wind is a delicious spruce brown ale that tastes like it came right out of a pine forest. Creamy and smooth, The Tree that Splits the Wind is a unique and refreshing treat.
Call for Comments
- Is there any part of the Western States 100 course that AJW has overlooked?
- What’s your favorite part of the course?
The 2019 Western States 100 fans at the Placer High School track. Photo: Michael Lebowitz
