How to Plan a Trip to Darby, Montana

In its five seasons,Yellowstone has been filmed across Montana, Utah, and even down in Texas. One of the most recognizable spots in the television show, the fictional Yellowstone Dutton Ranch, is set on Chief Joseph Ranch, a real working cattle ranch in Western Montana. While two of the property’s cabins — named after show characters Lee Dutton and Rip Wheeler — have previously been available to rent, the ranch notes it won’t be taking guest reservations for 2024 or 2025. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t make a trip out to Darby, a destination known as the gateway to the Bitterroot Valley.

“Darby is a special place to visit because it’s kept the small-town feeling that so many places have lost,” says Sheena Gillespie, a concierge at Triple Creek Ranch, the Relais & Chateaux property that’s been named the top resort in Montana in the World’s Best Awards two years running. Jim and Bonnie Mitchell, owners of the Bitterroot Fly Company, share the same affinity for their town, noting that “once you get here, you’ll fall in love with Darby’s charm.”

From riding horses at Triple Creek Ranch and fly fishing the Bitterroot River to watching a rodeo and walking down Darby’s historic Main Street, the 883-person town has something for everyone — especially those who can’t get enough of the Dutton family. Ahead of the November premiere of the final episodes of Yellowstone, here’s everything to know about visiting Darby, Montana.

Where to Stay

Triple Creek Ranch

Triple Creek Ranch has continuously received high marks in the World’s Best Awards, partly due to the freedom the all-inclusive operation provides its guests. The adults-only resort features 25 standalone cabins, and the nightly rate covers meals, drinks, and most activities, including horseback riding, skiing, inner tubing, mountain biking, and cooking classes. If you’re up for a bit more adventure, join the cowboys and cowgirls on a cattle drive, or sign up for dog sledding through the snowy mountains.

Bitterroot River Ranch

Bitterroot River Ranch is an all-season bed-and-breakfast baked in Western hospitality. Each of the three guest rooms inside the main lodge has an original theme — cowboy, safari, and chalet. The common spaces feel right out of Yellowstone, with a porch for taking in the mountain air, a fireplace in the great room, and a dining room where a country-style breakfast is served each morning.

Hannon House

The Mitchells recommend Hannon House, a historic Montana homestead, because it’s “not far from town and a short walk to the Bitterroot River.” The property has two vacation rentals — a one-bedroom bungalow and a 2-bedroom with a stocked kitchen — and its location means it’s perfect for anglers or anyone looking for a large dose of peace and quiet.

Best Things to Do

Fish the Bitterroot River.

According to the Mitchells, “Darby is a trout destination for many fishermen from all over the country.” Their business, Bitterroot Fly Company, offers full-day and half-day guided fly fishing trips along the main Bitterroot, as well as the West Fork and East Fork. If you’re not interested in casting a fly, opt for a scenic float trip, where you can admire the Montana views and local wildlife via boat.

Swim, paddle, or take a boat out on Lake Como.

Montana’s Lake Como might not have as large of a reputation as the Italian version, but it’s equally beautiful. In the summer, head over to Lake Como Beach and its designated swimming areas, or bring your boat down to the Lake Como Boat Launch Site. There are also hiking trails and a campground in the area; the latter is usually open from late May through early September.

Go for a hike in the Bitterroot Mountains.

“If you love to hike, make sure you stop at the Darby Historical Ranger Station located right in Darby for maps of short to longer hikes,” says Jim. Or you can download All Trails and see which trailheads are nearby. His favorite one? “Trapper Peak is an amazing hike, and the views do not disappoint,” he says.

See a rodeo.

For Gillespie, part of the magic of Darby is found in its local events, like the rodeo. The Darby Rodeo Association brings the time-honored tradition to the Richard Cromwell Memorial Rodeo Grounds each summer — and you can find dates and reserve tickets online.

Visit the Darby Pioneer Memorial Museum.

A historic hand-hewn log homestead houses the Darby Pioneer Memorial Museum, which is open seasonally from June 1 to Sept. 15. Inside, you’ll find a collection of pioneer artifacts as well as photographs and memorabilia from families in the Darby area.

Best Shopping

Double H Custom Hats

Not all cowboy hats are created equal — and you can expect the best of the best from Double H Custom Hats’ master hatter, Jimmy Harrison. The Darby showroom has various styles on display, and you can even design your own (be ready to spend a pretty penny). You probably won’t walk out of the store with your hat in hand, but the team will ship it to you when it’s ready.

Old West Antiques & Candy Store

“My favorite place to shop in Darby is the Old West Candy Store along with its attached antique and collectible emporium,” says Gillespie. The multi-room retailer is filled with artisan gifts, jewelry, all things huckleberry (a Montana specialty), and an impressive selection of antique furniture and old-fashioned candy.

Mr. T’s Mercantile

Shopping isn’t the main activity in Darby, but Gillespie says it’s always fun to “stop at the mom-and-pop shops on our historical Main Street.” One of those stores is Mr. T’s Mercantile, where you’ll find both essential items (the ones you forgot to pack), hardware, and a variety of unique things you didn’t know you needed. 

Best Restaurants

Old West Deli

The Old West Deli is one of Gillespie’s go-to places to eat in town. Here, she says, “you are likely to jump into a friendly conversation with locals while enjoying hearty meals and a variety of drink options.” The menu includes breakfast entrees — biscuits and gravy, burritos, and egg skillets — that are served until 3 p.m.

Little Blue Joint

For the “best chicken strips ever” and a generally “great menu,” Jim recommends Little Blue Joint. The restaurant serves up pizza, burritos, burgers, fish and chips, and a chef’s menu of rotating entrees. The atmosphere is friendly and welcoming, and it’s a great spot for a post-hike beer.

406 Saloon and Big Cat Cafe

Part bar, part restaurant, the 406 Saloon and Big Cat Cafe is a gathering spot in Darby. Along with the indoor atrium, there’s a backyard bar, yard space, and a covered “old town” boardwalk. The menu ranges in offerings from burgers and seafood to sandwiches and steaks, so everyone in your party should be able to find something that suits their mood.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Darby depends on your preferred activities, though Gillespie is partial to the winter. “Don’t let the cold scare you away. The warmth from the sun makes the snow glisten and sparkle like a winter wonderland,” she says. It’s this time of the year when you can build an itinerary around cross-country or downhill skiing, dog sledding, and snowshoeing. The Mitchells, however, prefer the spring and summer in Darby. “March through the middle of June is the Skwala hatch that brings in many anglers,” says Bonnie. From the middle of June through October, she says you can expect to fish, hike, and “just explore our beautiful Bitterroot Valley.”

How to Get There

The town of Darby is located in the south end of the Bitterroot Valley in Western Montana. It’s about 64 miles from Missoula and an hour and 20 minutes from the closest airport, Missoula Montana Airport (MSO). MSO has year-round and seasonal flights from Delta, United, Alaska Airlines, Allegiant, American, Frontier, and Suncountry Airlines. Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport is also an option for travelers flying in, though the 3-plus hour drive is significantly longer.

How to Get Around

Like most small Western towns, Darby is best navigated via car — and you’ll want to give yourself at least three or four days to see this part of Montana. “Before coming to Darby, you should know that you may need more time than you think to explore,” says Gillespie. “Although the town is small and welcoming, there are many attractions within a day’s drive that you may want to experience while you’re in the area.”