The coastline of France’s Vendée, known as the “Côte de Lumière”, stretches some 250 km and includes 140 km of sparkling sandy beaches. South of Nantes, north of Bourdeaux, Vendée boasts every imaginable landscape: hills and dunes, forests and meadows, rivers, marshes, vineyards, and canals. And, of course, that endless expanse of pristine beaches!
From town to country, chateau to bed and breakfasts, there is a lot of luxury to soak up in Vendée. Focusing (mainly) on Vendée du Sud (the southern part of the region), here’s a quick guide: must-see experiences, special dining spots, and unique accommodation options.
Les Jardins de William Christie
William Christie is renowned throughout France and America as a highly respected baroque music scholar and conductor. His Les Arts Florissant ensembles give over 100 concerts annually in the world’s most prestigious concert halls.
While nurturing Les Arts Florissant, William Christie also accomplished another of his dreams, explaining: “…to creating a unique and original garden around my 17th-century manor house, which is now the setting each year for the festival Dan les Jardines de William Christie, where we welcome music lover from all over the world.”
Every 15 minutes, five bells, which symbolize Christie’s best friends, ring. They welcome visitors to the formal courtyard as if to say, “Come in. This is just the beginning of your visit to an enchanted garden.”
To visit William Christie’s gardens is a sublime experience for any traveler living out their manor house dream. Located in Thiré, the gardens are French traditional but have unique and unexpected plants and eclectic landscapes. From Alice In Wonderland’s undulating hedges to classic French allées, French American Christie has curated a delightful secret garden that is a must-see in the Vendée du Sud.
Mourat vineyards
Wine tasters, from amateurs to professionals, will enjoy the Vendean vineyards! In Mareuil sur Lay Dissais visit the Mourat vineyards. Enjoy a guided tour of the cellars, or consider making a day of it with a bike tour and picnic, accompanied by Mourat wines, of course! The setting for this romantic déjeuner is a mill situated amongst the vineyards.
Mourat is also known for its afternoon-guided tastings of several of its vintages. Be sure to book in advance.
The Vrignaud Distillery
The Vrignaud distillery is a brand shoot-off from the Mourat family. Several projects are in swing from this historic spirits producer.
Along with tours and tasting experiences, expect hotel accommodation in what was once the estates’ stables and workrooms to open in 2025. Sit by the pool with a Negroni made from Vrignaud red vermouth this summer.
Everything you need to plan your trip in 2024
Luçon
Once you’re tired of beaching and need a bit of culture or shopping, head to Luçon. Developed in the Middle Ages for its proximity to the ocean, the town is anchored by its cathedral and port. Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption, has survived for centuries to become Vendée’s only cathedral listed as a historical monument. Make time to hear the Gothic spire bells and stroll through the 16th-century cloister; you’ll appreciate the restorative effect of your visit.
Luçon has some fun shopping avenues that aren’t intimidating the way Paris can be. It’s also known for its city park, the Jardin Dumaine. I can’t speak personally about this park, as I arrived in Luçon at dusk (the perils of a too-full itinerary), but it is listed as one of the most beautiful in France.
Le Macis
Restaurant Le Macis is a beloved local restaurant in Sainte Hermine. The husband-and-wife team who founded and operate it (he’s the chef, she’s everything else) have created a homey, community-focused, restaurant, with a sophisticated flair that will make you want to go back the next night. The food is French-Mediterranean, and the wine selection is impressive. Le Macis is also an excellent value, and while very French, it doesn’t fall back on the standard French fare. (No pomme frites here.) I was staying nearby, and this was an easy option, but go out of your way to experience this unassuming yet delightfully French restaurant.
La Maison Desamy
La Maison Desamy has just three rooms, accommodating up to 35 people. It’s small, has minimalist, creatively crisp, decor, and boasts Michelin-starred chef Simon Bessonnet. The gastronomy lunch surprises with each course. Simply delicious and a terrific accompaniment to a Mourat vineyard visit.
La Marine
Take notice there are nine restaurants in Vendée in the Michelin Guide. La Marine is the most recognized, with three stars in 2023-2024. Alexandre Coullon is the decorated chef behind La Marine, which borrows inspiration from where it is situated–on the island of Noirmoutier. Chef Coullon says he has to thank the artisans and resources throughout the Vendée that contribute to the success of his establishment. Chef also has his wife and business partner Céline to thank for La Marine’s success. In 2024, Las Liste voted their “restaurant baby” the 3rd best restaurant in the world! (Noirmouter island is north of Les Sables d’Olonne and not considered part of Vendée du Sud.)
Domaine de l’Orfraie
Guest house, bed and breakfast, inn, and retreat, Domaine de l’Orfraie is all these, rolled into one welcoming, luxurious barn turned country house. Accessed by roads between fields and farms Domain de l’Orfraie offers guest rooms with vaulted ceilings, fluffy big beds, exposed wood beams, and all the amenities you need. A delicious family-style breakfast with fresh jams, fruit, yogurt, pastries, cheeses, charcuteries, and on and on… is served at your convenience in “the barn’s” main room. A vegetable garden and a pool are on property, along with the two spacious family-style rooms.
Domaine de l’Orfraie is the dream child of another husband and wife team. (It seemed every establishment I visited in Vendée was family-run!) Wife Sandrine, formerly a nurse, is the cook and responsible for the divine breakfast buffet, but she’s also available to provide a picnic lunch or dinner with advanced reservations.
Vendée’s Luxury Accommodations
Director of En Vendée Tourism Eléonore Fourre also recommends Hôtel Parc du Landreau and Château de la Barbinière for the region’s luxury accommodations. Shouldn’t it be a rule that anyone visiting France should go, or better yet, stay at a chateau?!
Château de la Barbinière is both traditional and chicly updated. It will fulfill your French romance novel fantasy, providing enough charm to stage a first kiss. Their restaurant, l’Orangerie, is also considered top-tier in Vendée, with beautifully plated food by chef Nicolas Pasquier that is served under a glass roof.
Les Sables d’Olonne
France’s Vendée region also includes the beautiful, not-to-be-missed 19th-century seaside city of Les Sables d’Olonne. As for where to stay there, check into Hotel Vertime. Across from the marina, Hotel Vertime is ideally located for access to the world-famous Vendée Globe sailing race. Les Sables d’Olonne’s spectacular beaches and quaint neighborhoods deserve several days to explore. Sip local Vendean wine, rent city bikes to explore the salt marshes outside the city, or simply sit on the beach, watch the surfers, and read a book.
Cathie Arquilla
Cathie Arquilla is a travel writer from New York City. When she’s not traveling, she helps women look their best as a NYC fashion stylist.
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