Inspired by 3,500 years of Moroccan tradition, Robert Wright started Beni Rugs in 2018 from his longtime home base of Brooklyn. Soon after, he relocated to Marrakech to open the Beni Workshop and Studio, a sun-filled space dedicated to modern interpretations of the heritage craft. From the best sundowner spots to shops and galleries not to be missed, he shares how to make the most of this storied city.
STAY
La Mamounia
Infused with history, La Mamounia is home to both the best garden and location in Marrakech. The signature fig scent of its lobby stays with you. There’s nothing like an aperitivo in the Italian bar followed by a stroll through the gardens as the sun sets over the medina’s faded pink walls. I count some of my favorite mornings there—opening the terrace doors to singing birds perched in the towering palms is a singular experience. Jean Georges has taken over its restaurants, so you can dine on wood-fired pizza one night and fresh sashimi the next. There’s also a jewel box of a caviar and vodka bar that has played host to some famously late nights with close friends.
The Oberoi, Marrakech
There are roads leading out of Marrakech and the Route to Ouarzazate is one most loved. It’s tranquil—mountains loom large in the distance and large expanses of red earth meet endless blue skies. Along it lives The Oberoi. The hotel is home to Rivayat, one of my new favorite restaurants in Marrakech. Consulting chef Rohit Ghai is a Michelin-star chef whose menu plumbs the depths of India’s heritage. It’s unique and a nice change of pace from local cuisine and the food warms your soul. On winter weekends, the restaurant’s black marble fireplaces are roaring and a DJ is spinning. Rooms are set in lush gardens and the enormous spa is a great escape—across the board, service is spot-on.
El Fenn
El Fenn is the cool kid on the block. Its signature style is often imitated, but it remains unmatched, and a recent expansion has upped the ante. A visual feast, the hotel’s maze of hallways connects multiple riads, courtyards and hidden nooks to create an experience that could only be found here. As a local, its gorgeous roof deck is the place to be on Sunday evenings for good tunes and cocktails, but as a guest you’ll also have access to its sweet swimming pool and restaurant. There’s a magic to this place that never leaves you.
Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech
Surrounded by landscaped water gardens and its own golf course, the Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech is a welcoming oasis with a bounty of sumptuous suites and villas. Set on the second level of the hotel, Middle Eastern restaurant Al Aïn is our go-to for business dinners. The space is candlelit and covered in zelige tiles, and the Lebanese-Moroccan food is comforting and inventive.
Amanjena
In my fantasy where I’m either writing a novel or on the run, I’d stay at Amanjena. A masterpiece of Zen-like calm, the Aman staff anticipate your every need, the enormous villas promote peaceful disconnection, and the pool is sublimely serene—not to mention, the amazing Japanese restaurant and perfectly maintained clay tennis courts.
EAT & DRINK
+61
Affectionally known as Marrakech’s living room, +61 is where you’ll find me multiple nights a week. The buzzing room is packed for lunch and dinner with a mix of in-the-know visitors and locals. The stylish, whitewashed space is a respite from the bustle outside, owner Cassie Karinsky’s style of Australian hospitality makes you feel right at home and the food is delicious. Fresh, vibrant, authentic flavors from Cassie’s hometown of Bondi Beach fill the menu and the wine list is solid. I’m scared to count how many chicken schnitzels and pavlovas I’ve enjoyed here.
Farasha Farmhouse
On the Route to Fez, event planners Rosena and Fred of Boutique Souk have opened Farasha Farmhouse, so named for the butterflies that zig and zag around the property. Its pièce de résistance is a 50-meter swimming pool surrounded by groupings of sinuous olive trees. The kitchen is manned by the team from Mouton Noir, who turns out some of the most delicious food in town. A uniquely Marrakech mix of creatives, artists and entrepreneurs are always gathered here.
Terrasse des épices
After a requisite visit to the souks, there’s nothing like a long lunch at Terrasse des épices—it’s one of the few restaurants in the medina with a liquor license. The rooftop overlooks the markets and the menu of Morrocan or International choices is solid.
Nobu
Nobu, inside the recently opened Nobu Hotel Marrakech, is a welcome addition to the restaurant scene here—it takes Marrakech’s fresh seafood game to a different level. All the classics are on offer, served up in a sexy, dimly lit dining room with cool cocktails, such as a Mahia Negroni.
Blue Ribbon
Newcomer Blue Ribbon is what Marrakech was missing. A menu with fresh juices, a killer breakfast sandwich and hearty salads makes the bakery café an ideal morning and midday hangout location. You can order at the bar for takeaway or snag a seat on the terrace in the back. The owner Aziz also has plans to open a bookstore, épicerie and sit-down restaurant.
Sesamo
There’s nothing like dressing up and sliding into a banquette at Sesamo, the Royal Mansour’s Italian restaurant. It’s the spot to splurge at. The best Italian wine list in town is paired with amazing pastas and a luxe dining room. While you’re at it, the Mansour’s Le Jardin restaurant is unbeatable on a warm day for lunch outside.
Sahbi Sahbi
Designed by Paris and Marrakech-based architects Studio KO, Sahbi Sahbi combines traditional Moroccan food with a gorgeous interior lit by Noguchi paper lanterns. An open kitchen—a rarity in Moroccan cooking—is smack in the middle of the restaurant and the open fireplace and bustling chefs provide plenty of atmosphere.
Pétanque Social Club
Opened by serial restaurateur Kamal Laftimi, Pétanque Social Club’s stunning courtyard and interior were recently featured in The World of Interiors. The elevated comfort food and cool corners make it hard to leave. I love a quiet breakfast or brunch here.
Comptoir Darna
One of Marrakech’s many late-night spots, the surreal, loud and smoke-filled Le Comptoir gets going after midnight. They host great DJs, so be sure to check the agenda to see who is slated to play ahead of time. The last night we stopped in, there were robots on stilts and acrobats hanging from chandeliers, while both locals and tourists climbed on top of their tables to dance the night away.
SHOP
Moro
Nestled next to the Majorelle Gardens, Moro is my very favorite shop in Marrakech. The hard-working owners have created an intoxicating universe that includes ready-to-wear, beauty, fragrance and accessories, all of which is elevated and uniquely captures a sense of place. The ingredients in their beauty products are grown and harvested from Moro’s farm on the Route to Ourika.
The Beni Workshop + Studio
Spanning 8,000 square feet, Beni’s new Workshop allows clients to see first-hand how the rugs are crafted. Built around a courtyard and a 150-year-old olive tree, the Beni Studio is an ode to design and the art of approaching ancient tradition in new ways. After booking an appointment, you can tour the weaving floor, see how rugs are washed after being woven and peruse the latest collections to help realize your dream rug.
LRNCE
Inspiring creative powerhouses Laurence Leenaert and Ayoub Boualam have created LRNCE—a beautifully colorful brand, comprised of homewares, clothing, and ceramics. The identifiable pieces are hand-painted in sophisticated hues and unique forms. For those in search of local craft, start here.
Souks
The famous souks are a winding, confusing maze of treasures. You’ll find metalworkers handcrafting lanterns to hawkers of brightly-colored spices, jewelry, argan oil, slippers, leather bags and painted pottery. While there’s a variety of advice on haggling, it’s hard to give any hard and fast rules. Some sellers don’t negotiate much as their prices are already set fairly, others are willing to take 50 to 60 percent off their starting point—you’ll quickly get a sense for which is which. The best tactic? A willingness to walk away.
Marrakchi Life
Located in Sidi Ghanem, Marrakech’s answer to the meatpacking district, Marrakchi Life features bold designs, beautiful fabrics and a unique sense of cut and style which make it my go-to clothing source in Marrakech. Many shirts that I get complimented on the most are from here–I’ll wear them until they disintegrate.
El Fenn Shop
For a modern take on Moroccan crafts, visit the shop inside El Fenn. Blankets, housewares, books and clothing live alongside each other in a chic, lofty space.
Nomad Shop
The restaurant is consistently packed thanks to its airy design and prime location—the store is the place to stock up on housewares. Nomad’s spare space is neatly stocked with handcrafted terra cotta cups, delicate plates and unique carafes.
Explore
Scarabeo Camp
A bumpy 35-minute drive from Marrakech, Scarabeo Camp is perfect for a one-night escape from the city. You’ll sleep in the desert under star-filled skies in simple yet beautiful white tents. Enjoy a multi-course lunch and activities such as astronomer-guided stargazing or camel rides through the desert.
Galleries
Museum of African Contemporary Art Al Maaden, MCC Gallery (pictured), Gallery Siniya28 and Gallery 127 are all worth a visit to see what’s happening in Morocco’s contemporary scene. One artist to look for at MCC is Amine el Gotaibi—he’s known for creating stunning large-scale installations.
Jemaa el-Fnaa
Marrakech’s main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, comes alive at night. You’ll find snake charmers, monkeys, food stalls and the famous fresh orange juice stands jockeying for position amidst throngs of tourists and locals. Cafes filled with travelers line the square. As always, keep an eye on your wallet and valuables and be careful about getting involved in any of the setups taking place–you’ll likely be asked, insistently, for tips at the end of them.
Musée Yves Saint Laurent
Another project by the masters at Studio KO, the architecture and design of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent building alone is a wow, but the rotating exhibitions of the iconic French designer’s work are also always interesting.
About the Author: Robert Wright is co-founder of Beni Rugs which works with Moroccan craftspeople to create design-forward, made-to-order rugs. The former New Yorker now splits his time between Marrakech and Barcelona.
Photo Credits: El Fenn rooftop + shop: Cécile Tréal, El Fenn | Jemmaa el-Fnaa: Left Signe Bay Billede, El Fenn; Right Kasia Gatkowska, El Fenn
