While we often think of Mexican food as one long list on a menu, there’s actually a lot of variation between regions of the country and Guadalajara has its own spin on things. Mexico’s second-largest city is a growing culinary destination with great restaurants, bars, local markets, and craft beer – every time we go we get a little bit more excited about the scene.
Many of the pioneers of Guadalajara’s food and drink scene have been going strong for a decade or more since they originally opened. Alcalde’s minimalist chic is balanced by the complexity of its flavors and meticulous presentation of dishes. The kitchen has been run by chef Paco Ruano since 2013 and is a melding of Mexican ingredients with international techniques. Anita Li opened in 2017 and its sister restaurant, I Latina even earlier in 1999! You might think the kitschy nature of the decor would signify a less serious kitchen, but the pan-Asian dishes on Anita Li’s menu are all very thoughtful and the ambiance makes dining there even better.
Hueso is probably one of the best-known fine dining spots. Opened in 2014 the place is bone-white inside and out and covered in femurs, jaw bones, and craniums of hundreds of species of mammal, fish, and fowl. I’ve never had quite a tasting menu like the one at Hueso which is uncategorizable in style and cuisine but presents each dish as a flavor-packed punch to your palate.
For something a little more casual Res Publica which opened in 2013 is a mellow outdoor Argentine-style grill that serves up delicious cuts of beef, as well as a well-balanced list of wine from around the world. Another great traditional favorite is Ponte Trucha Negro, one of those classic, big, family-friendly seafood restaurants with an endless menu of ceviches and aguachiles paired with an ice-cold Pacifico or Corona beer.
More recently opened is La Panga del Impostor, an uber-hip seafood joint with a young and more single crowd than Ponte, in one of the old mid-century homes in Colonia Americana. The absolute best meal I have had in Guadalajara was Tikuun Comedor Local, newer to the scene and serving some of the city’s most inventive dishes – like scallops with peppermint, chile de arbol, pea microgreens, and glasswort – in a mellow, casual setting.
Our editor Tim also loves Allium – contemporary dining that leans toward Italian cuisine – led by chef/partners Adolfo Galnares and Maria Ortega. It’s lovely without being crazy expensive and is around the corner from the Fiesta Americana near the JW Marriott. If you’re staying at the Double Tree in town and don’t want to leave the hotel, their restaurant is very decent and has an incredible view of the city’s main cathedral (as you can see below).
We also both agree that some of the best breakfasts in town are at Pa’l Real (and some of the best coffee from across the country) and I also love Panadería del Barrio in Colonia Americana for their shushuka eggs or croque madame.
Guadalajara has long had a reputation as a good craft beer center, in a country where small-batch brewing has been an uphill battle against an entrenched duopoly. The tiny El Grillo bar is a showcase for independent Mexican brews on bustling Chapultepec avenue and Patan, is a cool taproom with a great selection and food.
Patan is in the same neighborhood as the UMHO taproom, which is home to one of the city’s biggest and best craft breweries – Loba. There are at least four craft breweries in that general vicinity, so it would be a good place for a craft beer pub crawl.
But Guadalajara also has a growing reputation for its cocktail scene, most obviously led by El Gallo Altanera, which has won a spot on North America’s 50 best bars since opening in 2018, and De La O, which seems to get a lot less press but whose cocktails I admit I like even better. Both places have class-act mixology in low-key, unpretentious settings, not something you can always say about its rival city for cocktails, CDMX. For classic cocktails also stop by Pigalle, with its red-lit interiors and sultry vibe.
Weekends in the Jalisco Countryside
Many who can afford it escape the bustling city on the weekends and head to the countryside. What better small town to spend it in than one embodying what Jalisco state is all about? Tequila, one of the original “pueblos magicos” before that term got over-diluted with less worthy contenders, is also upping its culinary game these days and offering much more than just Mexico’s most famous spirit.
Few visitors do more than eat lunch here before taking off in the afternoon, but it’s worth stopping by the Solar de las Animas Hotel, a venture from the Cuervo company that gives people a reason to stick around longer.
Of course, you have to do a tequila tasting while in Tequila, learning the differences between the flavor profiles of blanco, reposada, and añejo. It’s even better if you can do a food pairing later. La Casona Antigua, in the new luxury hotel, is the best place to do that. You can discover typical dishes from the region there, or be adventurous with one of the chef’s own inventions.
While Guadalajara may not be getting splashy headlines in food and travel magazines just yet, I can almost guarantee you that this city soon will. If you go now you will be ahead of the crowds.
Article by lydia-roma
Associate editor Lydia Carey is a writer and translator based in Mexico City. She is the author of “Mexico City Streets: La Roma,” and gives local tours when she’s not walking her dogs or eating street food.
