How to Plan the Perfect Ski Trip to Zell am See, Austria

When my husband and I decided to have a reverse snowbird winter, heading from the warmth of Portugal to the chill of a mountain town, we had a few rather specific demands. It had to be a spot with fantastic, reliable snow, it had to have a great community vibe, and above all, it had to be affordable. It’s hard to find somewhere that offers a great ski experience at a budget-friendly price, but to our surprise, the small town of Zell am See, located in the Austrian Alps, delivered on all that and more.

To say Zell am See is charming simply doesn’t do it justice — it’s a town straight out of a storybook. At its heart is a massive, glittering lake, and the historic center of town has medieval architecture, Gothic churches, and cobblestone streets. While it’s long been a well-touristed spot, its 10,000 locals maintain its low-key feel, and adult ski passes start at around $70, which is less than half the day rate at most major U.S. mountains.

“The quality of skiing here is really, really good,” Andreas Gassner, a mountain guide with Bergfuehrer Mountain Guides, shared about his hometown. “It’s a great bang for your buck.”

But this is more than just an affordable ski destination with great snow. During our time in Zell, we booked a stay at a little Airbnb attached to a family home, where we were invited over for tea and to see the family’s collection of Krampus masks. Our host even overheard us talking about my husband’s birthday, only to arrive later that afternoon with a cake and candles for him.

“There’s quite a bit of hospitality in Zell,” Gassner added. “It’s not a resort built just for skiing. It’s a real town. It’s an honest town.”

Whether you’re seeking adrenaline-pumping descents or serene lakeside strolls, this place has it all. Here’s how to plan a trip to Zell am See this winter.

Where to Stay

Grand Hotel Zell am See

It’s hard to miss Grand Hotel Zell am See. The historic four-star hotel is located directly on the shores of Lake Zell and is the epicenter of town. Here, guests can check into a destination that combines old-school elegance with modern amenities that make it feel brand-new. After a day of skiing, guests can indulge in a treatment at the spa or just relax in the sauna and steam bath. The hotel has two restaurants, but its central location makes it easy to bop around town for a bite and a drink, too.

Hotel Salzburgerhof

Find another luxurious option at Hotel Salzburgerhof. The five-star hotel is beloved for its exceptional service and expansive spa. There, guests can dip in its indoor or outdoor pools, relax in the sauna, or book a massage for the perfect post-ski break. Its on-site restaurant is also highly acclaimed with dishes like artichoke ravioli and local beef steaks.

Hotel Tirolerhof

Hotel Tirolerhof is the spot to be if you’re seeking a more traditional Alpine stay. Each of the hotel’s rooms includes mountain-inspired decor, and many come with balconies overlooking the peaks. This hotel too has a spa for skiers and riders to enjoy after a day on the slopes, along with its on-site restaurant, The Tirolerhof, that serves a fusion of Austrian and international cuisine. Best of all, it’s located just a quick walk from the ski lift, making it ideal for anyone hoping for first tracks.

Where to Eat

Bella Bean

True coffee aficionados will adore Bella Bean. The shop, located in the middle of town, offers every kind of caffeinated concoction you can ask for, along with a small list of bites that will keep you fueled for a day exploring Zell or on the slopes.

Ebenbergalm

Ebenbergalm, located on the slopes of the Schmittenhöhe, is the spot to be for a midday break — especially if you’re looking for hearty Austrian fare. Here, guests can order classics like wiener schnitzel and kaiserschmarrn (a scrambled pancake) and enjoy their meal on the sun-drenched terrace on a bluebird day.

Steinerwirt

It doesn’t get more classic than Steinerwirt. The restaurant, also located in the center of Zell am See, will transport you back in time with its rustic wooden floor and pine walls. The menu features a creative take on Austrian classics and emphasizes locally sourced ingredients, ensuring that what you’re tasting is as Australian as it gets (the staff even wear traditional lederhosen). Don’t skip over its extensive wine list either, which includes vintages from Austria’s top vineyards.

Deins & Meins

Get a taste of modern Austrian fare at Deins & Meins. The stylish restaurant, also located in the town center, blends Austrian and Mediterranean flavors. The menu here changes seasonally, ensuring everything is as fresh as it can get.

Where to Après-ski

Villa Crazy Daisy

If you’re after a lively après-ski scene, then Villa Crazy Daisy is the spot for you. The bar claims to be the leading post-ski spot since its opening day back in 1982. And honestly, that holds up. It’s a multi-floor complex with dancing on one floor, sit-down areas on another, and a drink menu that seems to go on forever. Just be warned, this place gets packed — but that’s half the fun.

Off Piste Bar

Off Piste Bar is another fantastic place to go for a post-ski drink. Here, guests can expect more live music and a packed dance floor filled with people still in their ski and snowboard gear. And like Crazy Daisy, Off Piste Bar offers a solid cocktail menu, along with beer and plenty of schnapps.

Off-mountain Activities

Lake Zell Winter Walks

Those looking to work up a low-key sweat can take a stroll around Lake Zell. The community offers miles of groomed winter trails that are ideal for a leisurely stroll with stunning views of the lake and the peaks along the way.

Tauern Spa Kaprun

Visiting Tauern Spa Kaprun was perhaps the most “freeing” activity my husband and I undertook while staying in Zell. The spa is fantastic and offers saunas, steam rooms, and both indoor and outdoor pools for those looking to unwind. But just note: The majority of the space is fully nude. In fact, you’re not allowed to enter with swimwear on, so just be ready to let it all hang out. And after a few minutes in the heat, I promise you won’t even notice.

Tobogganing at Köhlergraben

For a family-friendly thrill, visit the toboggan run at Köhlergraben, just outside Zell am See. This well-lit track winds through the area’s forest, which in the winter is a snow-filled fantasy. Sled rentals are available at several spots around town. 

Guided Skiing

While technically an on-mountain activity, a day with Gassner gets you off the main peak and into some of the most pristine snow you’ll find in Europe. “We use the infrastructure,” he explained, noting they use the ski lifts to get you to the top, then you ski to off-piste destinations from there. “Because we have so many lifts, it makes it accessible to more people.” The company usually offers individual guiding sessions, but on Thursdays, travelers can also join its ski tour groups, which is excellent for anyone looking to make new winter sports friends.

How to Ride

Tickets: Zell am See-Kaprun is part of the Ski Alpin Card, which provides access to more than 250 miles of skiable terrain, including the nearby Kitzsteinhorn Glacier and Saalbach-Hinterglemm ski areas. A day pass starts at around €64 ($68), with multi-day and family passes available at discounted rates (we stayed for a month and snagged a season pass for under $1,000). It’s best to buy lift tickets in advance so you can skip the lines and get to the lift even faster.

Rentals: There are plenty of ski and snowboard shops in town that will hook you up with all the right rental equipment. Intersport Bründl, conveniently located near the lifts, provides equipment for all skill levels. You can also book online prior to arrival for a smooth transition to the slopes.

Skiing and Snowboarding

Zell am See-Kaprun is spread across two main areas: Schmittenhöhe and the Kitzsteinhorn. However, with the Ski Alpin card, you can also ski at the neighboring Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn area. Schmittenhöhe is the main mountain, and its terrain breaks down to 35 percent beginner, 45 percent intermediate, and 20 percent expert. The Kitzsteinhorn Glacier also has typically excellent snow conditions thanks to its elevation of 9,938 feet. And luckily for us all, the mountain has some seriously high-tech, high-speed lifts that get you there in no time. 

Programming

Zell am See caters to families and beginner skiers and riders with its range of ski schools and programs. Ski & Snowboard School Zell am See is one of the most popular options, with both individual and group lessons available. It also offers lessons to more seasoned mountain vets who are looking to tune up their skills or take them to the next level. For younger children ages 4-11, there’s the Kids Course ski school.