Gary (our videographer) and I went to explore Regensburg as guests of Germany Tourist Board, a university city hailed as the best preserved medieval city in Germany, offering a heady combination of a beautiful skyline, impressive historic monuments and legendary Bavarian hospitality.
Although Bavaria lives up to all its wonderful cliches of lederhosen, dirndls and of course, its beer-swigging, jolly festivals, in my opinion, the Southeastern state of Germany offers much more than just a fine place to get drunk!
What’s so special about Regensburg?
It’s a place where pristinely glossy landscapes are punctuated with story-book castles, traditional churches and neat and medieval towns which go about their time-warped business in a peaceful, pristine kind of way.
Some of my family live in Bavaria, so it’s a region that will always have a special place in my heart and I feel that special connection as soon as I arrive there.
The Old Town of Regensburg (with Stadtamhof) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and over the decades the city has risen through the affluence stakes to become one of the most sought-after places to live in Bavaria!
Outside Germany though, it’s a place that remains very much under the tourist radar and I believe it’s a city destination that deserves a lot more attention. Here’s what I suggest to do in Regensburg in 48 hours if you visit at Christmas…
1. Wander the Beautiful Lanes in the Old Town
Packed full of magnificent medieval buildings, Regensburg wears its UNESCO badge with a lot pride! I love that it takes its heritage extremely seriously—for example, most of its buildings are now officially preserved and protected from alteration, so if a resident wants to repaint a house, for example, its colour has to conform to those used in the past! Wow!
I found it to be an extraordinary place with a cosy, quaint vibe with a mix of fine historic buildings, modern restaurants and cosmopolitan bars, and a seemingly endless network of narrow, atmospheric cobbled lanes lined with gorgeous boutique stores from chic clothes boutiques to shops selling artisan-made wooden gifts.
I loved just wandering through the winding cobbled streets, soaking up the pristine medieval charm of the place. It felt so untouched by tourism, and for a moment, I could almost imagine myself as a local, fully immersed in its timeless beauty!
At Christmas, I loved that the atmosphere in the lanes turns up several notches. This is when the elegant buildings are adorned with hundreds of twinkling lights and when the shops start selling exquisite handcrafted Christmas decorations, which I spent hours gazing at!
2. Go for a drink in one of the cosy bars
This time of year, Germany seems to be experiencing its own version of Hygge, and I think there’s no better place to experience this than in one of their bars or restaurants.
I recommend wandering the city centre’s cobbled lanes, gawping at the Christmas lights, and then trading in the dark, chilly winter night for a cosy drink or two at one of the inviting bars, which are often illuminated by soft, warm lighting.
Drinking in Regensburg is still as traditional and laid-back as you’d expect it to be in Bavaria but also exceptionally classy.
My favourite bars included Orphée, Kaminski, Hemingway’s – lurk in the maze of alleys between Haidplatz and Neupfarrplatz so I would suggest heading to those for starters!
3. Explore the Romantic Christmas Market!
This atmospheric Christmas Market seriously wowed me! Regensburg’s Old Town has hundreds of listed buildings. Still, I think this palace and its grounds are the jewel in the crown – in the middle of the 18th century, the princes of Thurn and Taxis created a magnificent castle.
From the 29th of November to the 23rd of December each year, it turns into a magical Christmas Market, which I think could have been plucked straight out of a storybook!
Known locally as the ‘Romantic market,’ I thought the entrance was jaw-dropping! It’s a flame torch-illumined path that leads down to a vast collection of traditional stalls and huts decorated with freshly cut branches of pines and spruces, selling winter rugs, Christmas ornaments, clothing, and handcrafted metalware, all encircled by a sea of sparkling lights! Wow!
Smaller illuminated pathways lead to alfresco champagne bars perched high on a hill or down to picturesque traditional children’s fairground rides or Glühwein stalls.
I loved that it was a visual feast for all the senses! Here, smoke from open campfires billows into the frosty darkness, the aroma of burnt candy and caramelised almonds permeates the air, and the regal sounds of bugles signal the start and end of the festivities – to me it was pure perfection in a Christmas Market!
4. Dine out in Stadtamhof
Stadtamhof is a small Bavarian neighbourhood in the middle of the independent city of Regensburg. You can reach it just over the stone bridge that crosses the Danube River (the oldest preserved bridge in Germany).
It’s a place where residents enjoy the peacefulness of its offset location on the banks of the Danube, yet they are still only a stone’s throw from the city. I loved the relaxed, cosy vibe here.
I thought it was an elegant and picturesque neighbourhood lined with a fine collection of bars, restaurants, and small shops still run by the same families. With a great choice of restaurants with a real local vibe, I personally think it’s one of the best areas to eat out in the city!
5. Explore the Advent Christmas Market
This time of year, Regensburg is home to no less than four separate Christmas Markets, and in my opinion, this is another must-see to add to your list! I last visited Regensburg in the summer, and this area is a beautiful beer garden on a much-envied spot on the Danube River.
I love that during the winter, it turns into a magical Christmas market. Visitors can view the beautiful illuminated cathedral and a collection of traditional stalls, flanked by open campfires, a towering Christmas, and more freshly made culinary delights and gluhwein than their stomachs can handle. Pure bliss!
6. Stay at the Green Spirt Design Hotel
The Green Spirit Hotel was our accommodation for our stay, and I think it perfectly captures Regensburg’s new, unique boutique vibe!
Set in a historic 18th-century building that was once a brewery (very Bavarian!), it’s a trendy hotel with a modern annexe, a chic dining room, stylish but quirky minimalist decor, and a wonderful courtyard garden complete with a greenhouse (used to grow vegetables and herbs used by the hotel chef). I thought it was adorable!
