How to Spend a Week in Phang Nga, Thailand

In August, I traveled up Thailand’s western coast, from the island of Phuket to the laid-back province of Phang Nga. The region is famous for the dramatic limestone karst formations that rise from Phang Nga Bay, but traveling off-season — and off the beaten path — allowed me to see it from a new angle. At the Sarojin Thailand, a beachfront hotel near the town of Khao Lak, monsoon rain released a cascade of fragrance from the tropical flowers in the garden. Watching the sun rise over the Andaman Sea the next morning, I found it hard to believe this pristine shoreline was, in 2004, the site of a devastating tsunami. 

The first stop on my itinerary, which was planned by the expert team at InsideAsia Tours, was the port city of Takua Pa. It was once the center of the local tin-mining industry, and I could still see traces of the architecture built by the Chinese and Portuguese merchants who settled there in the 19th century. I visited a tailor working with traditional Thai and Malaysian prints, a new coffee shop in a renovated town house, and a vendor selling fried pastries from a wheeled cart. 

Next, I drove up to Khao Sok National Park, in the neighboring Surat Thani province, where I spent two days hiking, exploring caves, and searching for wildlife. On Cheow Larn Lake, riding a wooden long-tail boat was an almost surreal experience, with enormous limestone shards shrouded with fog and endless virgin jungle on all sides. At times I could hear the sound of elephants wandering in the bushes, and waited for a glimpse. Alas, one never arrived. I slept above the water — the villas at the resort 500Rai are strung along a pier over the lake.

My final destination was Six Senses Yao Noi, which takes its name from the small, quiet island in Phang Nga Bay on which it’s located. When I wasn’t exploring the surrounding villages, I took part in some of the activities the resort offers — including a lesson with a former Muay Thai boxing champion. In the evening, I’d unwind with cocktails at the Hilltop, a restaurant at the hotel’s highest point, and take in the breathtaking views of the bay. 

Grant Ekelund (grant.ekelund@insideasiatours.com), a specialist at InsideAsia Tours and a member of T+ L’s A-List, can put together a Thailand itinerary that includes Phang Nga and Surat Thani. From $900 per person per day.