The quintessential Mexican combination of ancient ruins, world-renowned artisanry, and delicious cuisine with a laidback twist.
That’s Oaxaca City.
It’s the heart of Oaxaca’s sub-tropical Central Valleys region and the historic battleground between the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples. When the Aztecs extended their empire into Oaxaca in the 15th century, they christened its present name in Nahual as “Waxyakak,” or “Place of the Guaje Trees.”
This booming state capital is known for its classic colonial architecture, the most famous of which is the Church of Santa Domingo, and its vibrant cultural celebrations, including makeup-filled Day of the Dead parades and the annual Indigenous folklore event known as the Guelaguetza.
Oaxaca’s cultural and historical roots extend deep, with seemingly infinite spots to explore and ways to learn about the local way of life.
Whenever I travel to Oaxaca City from my home in the state’s mountainous Mixteca region, I always take some extra time to visit a new bustling market, a popular museum exhibit, or a neighboring town with a unique craft.
Here are 8 of my favorite spots in and around the city:
1. Monte Albán
Founded in 500 BC, the ancient Zapotec capital was one of the oldest major cities in Mesoamerica. Connected to its rival and fellow UNESCO heritage site Teotihuacan through important trade routes that extended from central to southern Mexico, Monte Albán is an impressive reminder of the ingenuity of lost civilizations.
With more than 2.5 square miles of ancient pyramids, palaces, and ball courts, Monte Albán is an easy 30-minute taxi or budget-friendly shuttle ride from downtown. The shuttle leaves every hour from 9 AM until 3:30 PM with a round-trip bus ticket costing around 90 pesos per person.
Admission to Monte Albán for non-Mexican citizens costs 95 pesos, with the option to join a tour for an extra 150 pesos.
Check out the small museum on your way out for detailed descriptions of discovered artifacts, buildings, and inhabitants.
2. Santa Maria Atzompa
Atzompa is a town and archaeological site about 5 kilometers from downtown Oaxaca. Overlooking the picturesque Etla Valley, Atzompa was a defensive outpost and satellite city that protected the Zapotec elite of Monte Albán from the powerful Mixtec Kindgoms in the northern mountains.
The ruins are extensive and worth the visit, but the real treasure of Santa Maria is its ancient wood-burning-based pottery technique that has been passed down for generations.
Check out the Atzompa Artisans Market at the base of the archeological site for a massive array of pottery from almost every local artisan. The diverse designs and highly affordable prices make this market a unique destination for visitors looking to bring home authentic handmade crafts.
3. The Art Center of San Agustín
El Centro de las Artes San Agustín (CASA) is a hidden gem tucked into the mountainside 30 minutes outside Oaxaca in the quaint town of San Agustín Etla.
Founded by the famous Mexican artist Francisco Toledo, CASA is a wonderful center with free admission displaying exhibitions of experimental art and traditional cultural practices within a majestic repurposed 19th-century textile factory.
Relax in the surrounding gardens, cafes, or at the local Eucalyptus Ecological Market (Sundays only) around the corner.
4. The Zócalo
The Zócalo is the bustling main public square of Oaxaca. It’s a central gathering place for locals on a work break, tourists planning their next stop, and often protesters from the influential teacher’s union seeking a raise.
The plaza is a nice place to grab a coffee and people-watch, but the surrounding museums and markets are the real catch.
Across the street from the Zócalo’s Metropolitan Cathedral is the Museum of Oaxacan Painters, a two-story gallery filled with local art with free entry to the general public. The Textile Museum of Oaxaca, two blocks east of the zócalo, is another free find displaying indigenous clothing from every region of Oaxaca.
The most extensive display of sizzling Oaxacan cuisine can be found two blocks south of the zócalo at “Mercado 20 de Noviembre.” From massive tlayudas to rich mole platters, 20 de Noviembre is a must-visit lunch spot.
5. Barrio Jalatlaco
Take a 20-minute walk from the Zócalo past Santo Domingo Cathedral and over to Oaxaca’s most famous urban park, “El Llano.” Stroll through the park and then cut over a few blocks east until you reach the peaceful cobblestoned and coffee shop-lined streets of the Jalatlaco neighborhood.
With its colonial architecture, colorful murals, and low-key outdoor music events, Jalatlaco seems like a world away from the hectic pace of downtown Oaxaca. There’s plenty of mouth-watering home cooking and smooth, regionally produced coffee on almost every block.
Visiting Oaxaca between March and July? Stroll on over to Eduardo Vasconcelos Stadium and catch an evening “Guerreros de Oaxaca” baseball game.
6. Tule & Teotitlán del Valle
Hop in a taxi or a shared “colectivo” heading east out of the city past the baseball stadium. Now you’re on the famed “ruta de mezcal,” where you’ll pass countless farms cultivating maguey for mezcal production.
There are several excellent places to stop before reaching Matatlán, the mezcal headquarters. Your first stop is Santa María de Tule, home to the stoutest tree trunk in the world. Surrounded by charming gardens and a refurbished colonial church, the Tule tree is a sight to behold.
Travel another 10 minutes and take the exit towards Teotitlán del Valle, one of the oldest Zapotec settlements with a 2,500-year-old textile production practice.
Their internationally recognized sheep wool rugs are dyed with local herbs and insects and woven on a massive wooden loom.
Stop by the Vida Nueva Women’s Weaving Cooperative for a detailed explanation of the dying process, a live demonstration of the loom, and a gorgeous selection of locally crafted rugs for sale.
7. Tlacolula de Matamoros & Yagul
If you visit Tlacolula, it has to be on a Sunday, market day.
Tlacolula’s open-air market, or “tianguis,” considered the most historically important market in the entire state since pre-colonial times, serves as a crossroads for diverse regional populations and products.
The amount of food available is eye-popping. If you’re a foodie looking for Mexican awesomeness and want to get your hands on the most out-there Oaxacan flavors, this is the place for you.
Once you’ve hit that spot when it’s time to stop eating and start moving, head to the Yagul archeological site. A short four kilometers from Tlacolula, Yagul is an ancient Zapotec city-state that boasts the second largest ball court in Mesoamerica behind Chichen Itza.
Make sure to take the short hike up to “La Fortaleza,” the remnants of a military fort overlooking the ruins of Yagul and the surrounding breathtaking valley with the Sierra Norte mountains looming in the distance.
8. Santiago Matatlán
Welcome to the “world capital of mezcal.”
Despite this grandiose title, Matatlán is a small town with few tourist shops and fewer restaurants.
What this desert oasis loses in tourist charm, it gains back a hundredfold with its overflowing supply of family-owned “palenques.”
Ask around town for the nearest palenque, and the friendly community will be more than happy to recommend an authentic mezcal production tour from growing the maguey to distilling the alcohol.
You’ll experience the sweet flavor of roasted maguey, the tangy burn of a shot of mezcal, and maybe even the satisfying chop of a maguey flower with your tour guide’s machete.
Well, it’s been a wild ride through the Valley of Oaxaca.
Lucky for you, that’s just one tiny taste of an enormous and incredibly diverse region of Mexico hosting innumerable adventures and hidden gems.
Keep shaping your Mexico adventure
Planning your next vacation and wondering when is the best time to visit Mexico? Timing can make all the difference! Avoid the rainy seasons and intense humidity with our guide to when to visit Mexico according to the weather so you can make the most of your trip.
If you’re dreaming of exploring Mexico during the winter months, you’ll want to know which cities shine in winter. Discover destinations with cooler temps, vibrant festivals, and fewer crowds—perfect for winter escapes.
And if you’re seeking sun and sand, Oaxaca’s “Costa Chica” offers the ideal stretch of beaches with affordable prices and minimal tourists. Check out our list of the best beaches in Oaxaca to find your slice of paradise.
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Ben is a freelance writer, yoga teacher, and avid explorer. After having traveled to dozens of countries, including a year-long stay in the West African nation of Benin, Ben settled in Eastern Oaxaca with his fiancée.
Together they enjoy hiking, running, and visiting the hidden waterfalls of Oaxaca. They also run a small business, “La Casa Verde,” that offers dance, exercise, and yoga classes.
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