Half-way through this European Waterways seven days / six nights cruise, pampered passengers, enjoying a bon viveur lifestyle, know that more unique excursions await. Confident that Captain Craig will introduce us to more fascinating people, sights and tastes that capture the very essence of Burgundy’s rich history.
Leisurely cruising along the Burgundy Canal, we are settling into the sedate rhythms of life on the water. Hearing only birdsong as we make themselves an early morning coffee in this quiet corner of France.
Later in the day, perhaps walking on for a lock or two as La Belle Epoque sedately cruises, at around 5 kmph, between lock-keepers’ houses. Or taking one of the barge’s bikes to cycle along the immaculately maintained towpaths.
Slow travel provides an opportunity to relax, to savour a region that is quintessential France, on a cruise with aristocratic flavours.
Day 4
Craig drives us to one of the Champagne region’s most southerly vineyards, belonging to the House of Taisne Ricour, where an acre of vineyards could sell for €1 million.
We are warmly welcomed by Baron Charles de Taisne to one of his hillside vineyard parcels where four months of pruning are complete: but where continuing frosts threaten grape growth, even though most growers insure against growth.
Grateful that his parcels are scattered over the hillside, spreading the risk of damage from disease, hailstorms and mildew; the Baron explains how regulation determinations both the density of his vine planting and even the size of lettering on bottle labels.
As we tour his winery, the Baron states that Champagne-makers rarely produce vintages; 2017 was the last Taisne Ricour vintage. Instead they blend wines and reserves to create a consistent taste. That puts immense pressure on tasting skills.
Then Baron Charles takes us to his local church, whose size and lavish stained-glass windows make it seem more like a cathedral: recently the Sistine Chapel organist performed here. Centuries of champagne wealth have left a rich legacy.
Caviar canapés and champagne welcome us to the Baron’s elegant limestone chateau. Beneath sombre family portraits, Baroness Ségolène de Taisne pours the champagne, before we sit down for a four-course luncheon served by her staff. She explains that the silver cutlery, with her family’s coat of arms combined with that of Charles, was a wedding gift.
Day 5
After a morning cruising, we take an early Burgundian buffet lunch of quiche, pate-en-croute, snails, charcuterie, cheeses, breads and wines up on the sundeck. We have more aristocracy to meet.
Yesterday it was a Baron and Baroness. Today, we meet Count Bertrand de Vogüé, at the Chateau Commarin, owned by his family for some 26 generations, stretching back 900 years. He explains the difficult balance of maintaining the historical authenticity of a chateau whilst being sufficiently commercial to raise funds for its upkeep. A roaming black pig, bought to hunt truffles, but finding none, epitomises his problems.
Falconry displays have proved to be a draw with visitors marvelling at the speed of sparrow hawk Tinkerbell and the deathly power of Siva. Though these are not just show birds, they work too: controlling crow and pigeon numbers as well as providing therapy for prisoners.
Craig’s tour of the chateau includes some remarkable history. On the first floor, a large bath would have contained a huge lump of ice stored from the winter to provide an ingenious form of air conditioning. That winter ice was also used, with summer fruit, in the sorbetiere. When village children came to play with the family’s children they would have been delighted to try sorbets. As with the Taisne family, it was this close relationship that encouraged locals to hide Commarin’s artefacts when the Nazis arrived in 1940.
A scenic tour back to the barge takes us past a monument to the Battle of Alesia where the Gauls were brutally defeated by Julius Caesar’s forces in 52BC. A story with a very different ending to the popular Asterix cartoons.
Back on board we are welcomed with Mississippi jazz from the Riverboat band, who play as we are handed a cocktail.
Day 6
Most guests opt for a quick breakfast so that they can walk along to the Montbard market, where we see chef Harris placing a large order with the cheesemonger who has provided us with a choice of around 30 cheeses over the voyage.
A 15 minute drive takes us to the utterly serene UNESCO recognised Abbaye de Fontenay. Tired of the indulgence and fine-living of contemporary monasteries, 10th Cistercian monks sought a site where they could create an order based on chastity, charity and silence. Monks slept on hay beds and woke, in the night, to pray spreadeagled on cold gravel; permitted to speak for a mere two hours per week.
Time for a more sociable evening on La Belle Epoque. Opening a bottle of Taisne Ricour Reserve champagne with a glinting sabre, Craig provides a grand theatrical start to the Captain’s Dinner.
“These are amongst my favourite Burgundian dishes. It’s the sort of meal a local family would have on a special occasion,” Craig explains as a scallop carpaccio arrives, followed by French Onion soup.
Harking back to our visit to the Laroche cellars, our first wine is a Chablis Grand Cru, as recommended by our guide. Flourishing yet another bottle of Taisne Ricour, hostess Ema adds a splash of champagne to the palate cleansing lemon sorbet.
Charolais steaks, individually cooked to order, provide the main course, before one final cheeseboard leading into the chef’s stunningly original take on the classic Mille feuille dessert with a surprising pistachio layer.
Everything you need to plan your trip in 2024
Day 7
On the drive back to the Hotel Westminster in Paris, we recall a luxurious introduction to the often overlooked Burgundy region.
Far from France’s tourist hotspots we’ve virtually had the Abbaye, cellars and chateaux to ourselves. In a small group, we’ve been able to ask Craig questions and talk to the fascinating Burgundians he’s introduced. C’est magnifique.
Already reminiscing about the voyage some of the guests are already planning their next European Waterways luxury barge cruise.
The cost
A hotel barge cruise
Based on two passengers sharing a cabin, 6-night/7-day cruises aboard the 12-passenger La Belle Epoque start at $6,850 per person and include all gourmet meals, fine wines, an open bar for the duration of the cruise, daily escorted excursions, admissions, and private transfers at either end of the cruise.
Group charters
2025 Charter prices aboard La Belle Epoque start from $77,000 ($6,416pp) based on 12 passengers travelling. La Belle Epoque also offers a selection of ‘Themed Cruise’ itineraries (bookable on a private charter basis) for travellers with specific interests, which include family, golf, walking and wine appreciation.
Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by European Waterways.
Michael Edwards
Michael Edwards is a travel writer from Oxfordshire, UK. Although Michael had his first travel pieces published nearly four decades ago, he is still finding new luxury destinations to visit and write on.
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