What I’m about to describe isn’t just another luxury hotel review. But please read on and you’ll see how this is a luxury experience of a very different kind, but every bit as special. Birka is essentially the original Stockholm – a bustling Viking trading hub situated on the island of Björkö in Lake Mälaren, just west of modern-day Stockholm. It was established in the 8th century and served as one of the earliest urban centres in Scandinavia, playing a vital role in the trade routes that connected Viking territories with the rest of Europe, Byzantium and even the Middle East.
Once a centre for merchants bringing goods like furs, textiles, jewelry and exotic items, today it is a UNESCO World Heritage site that welcomes visitors to explore the site, learn more about Sweden’s deep Viking heritage and marvel at this symbol of early global trade. And what’s really special is that you can stay overnight at Birka, long after the majority of tourists have left, to truly appreciate the island’s historical values, nature and spirit, and have the place pretty much all to yourself.
But firstly, how do you get there? Most visitors arrive on board M/S Victoria – run by Strömma Kanalbolaget – which leaves Stockholm, and stops at various jetties on the way. Top tip: if you have a car, do as we did and drive to Jungfrusund in Ekerö, and board at the jetty there. Parking in Stockholm is expensive, but at Jungfrusund you can park for free for up to two days. Alternative options are to drive to Lindby brygga, Adelsö and travel by motorboat, or charter a yacht and moor at Birka’s guest harbour.
The welcome
Anyone disembarking M/S Victoria at Birka is greeted by a wooden sign, resting against an old wooden wheelbarrow, with the word ‘welcome’ in Viking runes, set against a picturesque backdrop of red buildings and lush greenery.
You can visit Birka for the day, as most people do, or stay overnight and enjoy a glamping experience. We were there to do the latter, but didn’t communicate our arrival when we first arrived as we first wanted to take the tour. Tours run each day after the boat arrives – one in English and one in Swedish.
The tour of Birka
If you visit Birka, I strongly recommend you take the tour. You’ll still have plenty of time to explore the island at your own leisure, but the tour – which is all included with your visit – will give you some really valuable insights.
It takes about an hour and involves some walking on varied terrain, but nothing too strenuous. On the tour, which is delivered by someone in traditional Viking attire, you will learn about how the island is now much bigger than it used to be due to post-glacial uplift of the terrain, but also about the excavations and burial chambers on the island.
You will learn about how merchants came to the Birka from all over Europe, as well as other parts of the world, as revealed by archaeological excavations that have unearthed Arabic silver, beads and ceramics from Eastern Europe and exclusive fabrics from Asia. In return, the traders would have received Swedish goods such as iron, horns, skins and furs.
Birka controlled the trade routes in northern Scandinavia for around 200 years, but came to an end when the residents either died or abandoned the island, we’re not sure which. Some 5,000 graves – mostly cremation graves – exist on the island today and are a moving reminder of what was once a thriving community.
The tour concludes close to the Monument of Ansgar, a cross that occupies the highest point on the island. It was built to honour the Benedictine monk Ansgar, a missionary who was sent to Sweden in the 800s by Louis the Pious, emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, to bring Christianity to the country. While his mission may not have been entirely successful, a monument bearing his name was raised a thousand years later, in 1834, and it still stands today.
It’s worth visiting even if just for the view of Lake Mälaren.
The glamping experience
Five glamping tents, each with historical Viking names and sleeping 2 to 4 people, are a relatively new addition to the island.
They are fenced off from the majority of visitors to ensure a degree of privacy, and situated just above the water’s edge.
The view from inside the glamping tent is so peaceful and relaxing, and offers a wonderful vista across Lake Mälaren.
Each tent is furnished with a proper bed and hotel-standard bedding, a lockable chest for your valuables, stools and a table.
Shampoo, conditioner and shower gel are all supplied, as are towels and a light, and showers and lavatories are available in a service building close to the glamping area. Or, if you’re feeling brave, take a dip in the refreshing water the Vikings bathed in via the small beach that’s en route.
As for my night’s sleep? As you know, I’ve been fortunate to stay at many lovely hotels all over the world, but I’m not exaggerating when I say this was possibly one of the best night’s sleep that I’ve had in years! I’m not sure what it was… maybe because we went to bed relatively early when night fell, or perhaps it was the soothing nature of the water lapping against the shore outside, but I slept really, really well and felt completely refreshed the next morning.
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The facilities
There is so much to see on the island. Beside the archaeological site and Ansgar Monument already mentioned, there is a museum and shop which has exhibitions and some excellent reconstructions showing life in Birka in the Viking Age. It also includes many fascinating objects that have been uncovered at the site.
Across from the museum are some full-scale reconstructions of Viking-era buildings and boats, ancient Norse crops, and livestock, to give visitors a better insight into what life was like in this earliest of Swedish settlements. This authentic reconstruction is based in part on knowledge obtained during archaeological excavations made on the island.
If you download Birka’s audio guide to your mobile phone, you can hear about Ulvar, a 10-year-old who lived in the village during the Viking Age, or about the reconstruction of the houses.
There’s even a church on the island, managed by Ekerö parish, which is open for visitors as well as Summer weddings and christenings. Bearing the Christian missionary’s name, the Ansgar Chapel, was designed by architect Lars Israel Wahlman and built in around 1930, one hundred years after the Monument of Ansgar was raised.
Finally, make sure you visit Restaurant Särimner, close to where the boat docks, where you can sit inside or out.
We had lunch there both days, enjoying locally produced food such as classic Swedish meatballs served with pickled cucumber, lingonberries, potatoes and a cream sauce, beetroot beefs served with a grey pea hummus, root vegetables and sauerkraut, or smoked salmon served with a herb sauce and roasted root vegetables, spinach and pickled red onion. And the beer comes from local breweries too.
A Viking dinner at Restaurant Särimner is included in the glamping experience, where you can enjoy Swedish dishes such as Classic Toast Skagen. This classic dish of shrimps in a creamy dressing of mayonnaise flavoured with fresh dill and a squeeze of lemon is often enjoyed as part of midsummer celebrations or on other festive occasions.
The hearty mains included dishes such as red wine braised beef cheek with root vegetable gratin and asparagus, Särimner’s fish and seafood casserole, and glazed ribs with fries, all exceptionally cooked.
An espresso crème brûlée with fresh berries was a lovely way to round off the evening as the sun set over Björkfjärden.
The location
Birka is located on Björkö Island in Lake Mälaren, approximately 30 kilometres west of Stockholm.
Other nice touches
One really lovely part of our stay was having a breakfast basket delivered in the morning. The chef had asked us the night before what we liked in the way of tea, coffee, juice, rolls, yoghurts, etc. and this was duly dropped off by quad bike the next morning. Again, the weather was kind to us so we were able to enjoy this outside.
The cost
Boat tours to Birka, which include a round trip, access to the museum and a guided tour of the ancient fields, start from just 395 SEK (approximately $40 USD) per person.
The glamping experience, which includes an overnight stay, a Viking dinner and a breakfast package, starts from 3790 SEK (around $400 USD) for a 2-person tent, or 5700 SEK (around $600 USD) for a 4-person tent. Glamping guests receive a discounted boat trip with Strömma Kanalbolaget to and from Birka. The boat trip is booked separately with the discount code received in the glamping confirmation.
The site is only easily accessible to visitors in the warmer months of the year, with a regular ferry service running from Stockholm from May to September.
The best bit
One of the really special things about glamping at Birka is having the place to yourself after all the other tourists have left. And, whilst it’s hard to pick out a stand-out feature of our glamping experience as we loved every minute of it, the Viking dinner was really lovely. There was only the four of us and the chef there, and he produced an exceptional meal for us, particularly when you consider the majority of the ingredients have to be brought on to the island. It was just so peaceful and the weather was kind to us, which meant we were able to eat outside, overlooking the water as the sun set. All very magical!
The final verdict
If you are in Stockholm, I wholeheartedly recommend a visit to Birka. It is a very special place, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and of huge historical significance. But, to make your visit extra special and more memorable, I would definitely recommend that you opt for the glamping experience to fully immerse yourself into the island’s historical values, nature and spirit. It will give you more time to get to know the site and allow you to better appreciate everything that it has to offer.
Disclosure: Our visit to Birka was sponsored by Strömma Kanalbolaget and our trip was kindly supported by Visit Stockholm.
Paul Johnson
Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is Winner of the Innovations in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ Award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Telegraph.
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