Review: Wilderness DumaTau Camp (Botswana)

September 18, 2024

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Wednesday newsletters always feature a hotel or flight review.

Early July, I enjoyed one of my best holidays ever, an ultra-luxe safari in Botswana with Wilderness, Africa’s award-winning, leading eco-tourism company. My exact itinerary with Wilderness in Botswana can be found here (this site also allows you to book the same trip). You can read my trip reports here:

Today: Review of Wilderness DumaTau Camp (Linyanti Wildlife Reserve, Botswana)

Nestled deep within the Linyanti Wildlife Reserve, on the northernmost fringe of Botswana, lies DumaTau. The reserve’s diverse, pristine 95 000 acres offers truly exclusive excursions and close-up wildlife encounters. Newly rebuilt DumaTau takes full advantage of its 45 km (28 mi) of river frontage to create an unparalleled safari experience. Eight tented suites with private plunge pools sit on wooden walkways mere steps from the wildlife corridors, so animals often wander peacefully through camp. Interiors of hand-crafted mosaic tile, acacia wood, and local textiles reflect the heart of the Linyanti. The camp’s spa, the Osprey Retreat, soothes your soul. As do all the elephants, whose moving herds compose one of Africa’s most elemental rhythms. Similar in style to DumaTau, Little DumaTau is an intimate haven of sophisticated elegance, with just four supremely spacious guest suites.

Wilderness DumaTau features in my top 10 lists of the best luxury safari lodges in Botswana and my favorite Wilderness lodges in Africa.

Have you ever stayed at Wildernness DumaTau? If so, what was your experience? Leave a comment.

In this review (more info and photos below my YouTube video):

PROS & THINGS I LIKE

DumaTau is situated in the the Linyanti Concession in Northern Botswana bordering the Chobe National Park. An abundance of wildlife roams freely between Linyanti and Chobe through woodland habitats, ancient floodplains and forests that make up this lush, unfenced reserve. The big game in this area increases dramatically during the dry season when the area hosts large herds of impala, blue wildebeest, giraffe and buffalo as well as the world’s highest density of elephant. Several packs of wild dog are found in the area and lion, leopard and cheetah are frequently sighted. This vast, untamed wilderness is the perfect location for those seeking a unique African adventure in a remote big game habitat.

Located along the Osprey Lagoon within the Linyanti Wildlife Reserve, Wilderness DumaTau enjoys a truly extraordinary setting. The lodge’s extensive lagoon frontage ensures that the guest suites and the communal area have uninterrupted views over the beautiful Osprey Lagoon and the movements of the mega-herds of elephants the Linyanti is so famous for. Due to its exclusive location, the camp offers an unrivalled wilderness experience, with private access to Zibadianja Lagoon and more than 45 km (28 mi) of exclusive traversing along the Linyanti River frontage, as well as the north and south banks of the Savuti Channel – think effortless space, privacy, seclusion and extraordinary wildlife encounters

The lagoon-side setting – which regularly attracts herds of elephants – is key to the architecture and design of Wilderness DumaTau. The main lodge – which comprises a bar, dining room and a “curiosity room” under canvas – offer expansive views out over the water. The camp’s explorer tented style pays tribute to Botswana’s bygone eras, ancient migratory paths and the age of exploration, while reclaimed timber adds an extra architectural layer to enhance the main lodge (as well as guest tents). Throughout the lodge, a color palette of berry, blush, terracotta and greens evoke the wilderness beyond. A highlight is the lodge’s circular fire deck, which floats over the tranquil river, connected to the main lodge by a wooden staircase.

Wilderness DumaTau features eight spacious tented suites – seven twin suites and one family unit – which are connected to the main lodge by an elevated timber walkway. Each guest suite has a comfortable and inviting indoor lounge, as well as spacious bathroom with indoor and outdoor showers. The luxurious guest suites are raised off the ground to take full advantage of the outstanding riverfront views. A sliding gauze door in the back of the tent improves airflow through the suite, while the en-suite facilities include a sliding fabric wall that can be closed to ensure absolute privacy. An extended deck, with private plunge pool, and awnings create a relaxing shaded space to soak in the views and watch the wildlife moving pas.

Wilderness DumaTau was completely rebuilt and reopened in 2021, with the addition of Little DumaTau, a co-located but smaller and more intimate camp (with four identical suites). These two camps are situated on the same site as the previous DumaTau and are connected by an elevated timber walkway. Halfway this walkway, between the two camps, is communal area called the ‘Osprey Retreat’. Guests who stroll to the centrally located Osprey Retreat will discover not only a pergola with daybeds, a safari boutique, a bar with delicious fresh and healthy snacks, and a fully equipped gym, but also a welcoming ‘cool deck’ with a pool an in-pool loungers. The pool has been carefully aligned so that it appears to merge with the dark waters beyond. Right next to the Osprey Retreat is a luxurious spa treatment room.

The design of the camp itself is intended to prompt questions and encourage guests to discover the purpose of DumaTau. The story of the camp and of the region is told through two unique, life-size ‘curiosity boxes’ in the guest suites containing compelling details about elephant and wild dog – both key species used to explain DumaTau’s conservation purpose. Additional curiosity boxes are also found in the interpretive library, further bringing these important stories to life. The Linyanti is a vital migration corridor for elephants, and serves as a dispersal hub for wild dog, and it is therefore crucial that the Linyanti is protected, with conservation tourism playing a vital role. Through the ongoing presence of Dumatau camp on this site, a meaningful contribution is made to make the area a safe haven for a diverse range of species.

All meals at Wilderness DumaTau (e.g. breakfast, lunch, afternoon and tea) are included in the room rate. By way of acknowledging that sustainability relates to human livelihoods as well as ecosystems, the food offering at Wilderness DumaTau is based primarily on seasonal and locally available ingredients. Sourcing produce from suppliers in northern Botswana reduces food miles and supports small businesses. Breakfast is served at 6 am around a camp fire near the main lodge (right before the morning drive). Guest can opt to have their lunch al fresco on the camp’s barge. Dinners are served on the main lodge’ terrace with daily changing menus. Once a week, a barbeque , accompanied by dances of the staff, is held in the boma right behind the main pavilion.

Sustainability is key to the DumaTau story – adherence to Wilderness Safaris’ long-standing ban on concrete in its camps meant that when it proved necessary, one of the original guest rooms could be disassembled and relocated with minimum disruption. Flexibility in the design of the expanded rooms meant that they could be built around existing trees. The timber cladding effect used throughout the camps has been achieved through repurposing wooden decking from the old DumaTau. On closer inspection, the details on the hand-dyed cushions reveal themselves to have been cut from old game-drive vehicle tyres. Wilderness DumaTau is also 100% solar-powered and all hot water is heated by solar geysers. Water-efficient showerheads, tap aerators and cisterns also feature.

DumaTau is managed by Wilderness, one of my favorite safari companies. Wilderness was founded in 1983 in Botswana by two young guides, who wanted to ensure both conservation of wildlife areas and that the financial benefits of their safaris flow to Botswana and its people. Today, Wilderness Safaris is widely acclaimed as the continent’s foremost ecotourism operator, dedicated to conserving and restoring Africa’s wilderness and wildlife. They do this by creating life-changing journeys in some of the most remote and pristine areas in Africa, hereby helping to conserve Africa’s spectacular biodiversity and share ecotourism’s benefits with the local communities. Jao can be combined with a stay at Wilderness’ other top lodges in Botswana – Jao, Vumbura Plains and DumaTau – to create an authentic and evocative desert experience.

CONS & THINGS TO KNOW

During the South African winter months (June to October), the area around Wilderness DumaTau is thriving with wildlife, including mega-herds of elephants and a good population of predators. To give you an idea, during my visit in the month of July, I witnessed lions chasing antelopes (right in front of the open car vehicle), a pack of wild dogs hunting some prey and a herd of 200+ elephants visiting a waterhole (all in one game drive). However, if you visit outside the winter months, the game drives at Wilderness DumaTau may be less rewarding since the density of wildlife in the camp’s immediate vicinity is lower.

Wilderness DumaTau is not fenced off, so guests are required to be vigilant at all times. Leopards, lions, buffalos, and elephants are present in the Okavango Delta, and there is no physical impediment to them entering the area around the lodge. Elephanst frequently visit the resort grounds. Under no circumstances are guests allowed to walk around the lodge at night, unless accompanied by a staff member. Do not worry though as it’s all part of the excitement of being immersed in a true African safari.

Wilderness DumaTau can only be reached by small aircraft, either from Maun (30 min flight) or directly from one of the other Wilderness Camps in the area. The thought of flying in a small one-engine plane can make some travelers – including myself – nervous. That said, the flight itself is spectacular and offers phenomenal views of the delta, with wildlife gathering or galloping below. Also, Wilderness Air – the flying wing of Wilderness – is respected for its varied fleet of light aircraft suited to land on dirt airstrips in remote areas and for its team of passionate, professional pilots dedicated to guests’ safety, comfort, and satisfaction. And Wilderness Air offer more than just a connection, flying carefully orchestrated circuits maximizing the time of guests in the Okavango Delta. For example, when moving from one lodge to another, you’ll never have to backtrack via Maun and flight times are always between 11 am and 4 pm, allowing you, for instance, a morning’s dreamy mokoro ride in one lodge followed by an adventurous afternoon game drive in another lodge.

Malaria is common in the northern parts of Botswana such as the Linyanti Concession (where Wilderness DumaTau is located), particularly during or after rainy season from November to April. Medications can be used to prevent the chances of contracting malaria. For advice on the use of any malaria prophylaxis, you need to contact the health authorities or your local travel clinic prior to your travels. In addition to any prophylactics, the following mitigation measures are recommended: cover your arms, legs and feet in the evenings and apply a mosquito repellent containing DEET.

MY VERDICT

Location: 10/10
Design: 8/10
Pool: 9/10
Rooms: 9/10
Food: 9/10
Breakfast: 8/10
Spa: 9/10
Service: 10/10
Wow factor: 9/10
Value for money: 10/10
Overall experience: exceptional – 9.1/10

TIPS FOR FUTURE GUESTS & SAVE MONEY

Itinerary tip: My exact itinerary with Wilderness in Botswana – which included a stay at Jao, Vumbura Plains and DumaTau safari camps – can be found here (this site also allows you to book the same trip).

Itinerary tip: I recommend a safari at Wilderness DumaTau between about June and October when game viewing is at its best.

Save money: read here my tips for getting the best deal at a luxury hotel like Wilderness DumaTau Camp (and/or receive many free perks).

Read my tips for preparing your trip in time.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Wilderness DumaTau offers year-round safari activities. While each season brings a unique appeal, wildlife numbers are concentrated between June and October. These drier months offers prime opportunities to witness the annual migration of elephants along the Linyanti River, as well as sightings of predators such as lions and leopards attracted to the concentration of prey near water sources.

HOW TO GET THERE

Wilderness DumaTau can only be accessed by light aircraft into the nearby airstrip, which has daily flight connections with all camps in Okavango, Linyanti, Maun Airport (which is the main tourist getaway to Botswana) and Kasane (for connections to Livingstone and Victoria Falls). Wilderness takes care of booking all transfers and flight.