Review: Wilderness Vumbura Plains (Okavango Delta, Botswana)

September 11, 2024

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Wednesday newsletters always feature a hotel or flight review.

Early July, I enjoyed one of my best holidays ever, an ultra-luxe safari in Botswana with Wilderness, Africa’s award-winning, leading eco-tourism company. My exact itinerary with Wilderness in Botswana can be found here (this site also allows you to book the same trip). You can read my trip reports here:

Today: Review of Wilderness Vumbura Plains (Okavango Delta, Botswana)

Vumbura Plains offers travelers a sublime African wilderness journey, with arguably the best wildlife encounters in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. A modern-style safari camp that wouldn’t look out of place in an architecture magazine, Wilderness Vumbura Plains is designed and operated in total empathy with its diverse surroundings. Partnerships with local communities in this region of the Okavango Delta have created empowerment opportunities while allowing guests access to its many treasures. Fourteen light, airy guest suites feature designer fittings and touches of unabashed luxury, including private plunge pools and salas, as well as indoor and outdoor showers. Safari activities focus on day and night game drives through a variety of game-rich terrains and on (seasonal) water activities.

Have you ever stayed at Wilderness Vumbura Plains? If so, what was your experience? Leave a comment.

In this review (more info and photos below my YouTube video):

PROS & THINGS I LIKE

Wilderness Vumbura Plains is one of the top lodges in the Okavango Delta – a World Heritage Site as it is the largest inland delta in the world – in the northwestern corner of Botswana. The magnificent Okavango River sprawls out over the dry sands of the Kalahari Desert forming this flourishing waterlogged oasis featuring countless meandering waterways and crystal clear lagoons studded with water lilies, as well as fertile floodplains and reeded islands inhabited with abundant wildlife. Visitors in the Okavango Delta can enjoy a number of wonderful activities such as game viewing, fishing, bird watching or taking an authentic guided mokoro excursion through this wetland paradise in a traditional dugout canoe. Commonly spotted animals include: lion, rhino, leopard, giraffe, hippos, elephants, crocodiles and countless species of bird.

Wilderness Vumbura Plains lies in the far north of Botswana’s Okavango Delta. The lodge is located in a 60 000-hectare private wilderness area known for its excellent wildlife spotting opportunities and water activities. The enthralling mopane bushveld and vast floodplains are home to a huge number of animal species, including wild dog, lion, hyena, and leopard (these species are the most commonly spotted) as well as giraffes, elephants, Burchell’s zebra, and numerous antelope species. The reserve offers day and night game drives, as well as guided walks and photography tours. Fringing the world-famous Moremi Game Reserve, the lodge’s private wildlife reserve is decorated with permanent waterways, tree islands, and swamps – providing the chance for kayaking, boat tours, and bird spotting.

Wilderness Vumbura Plains is reached by light aircraft from Maun (or from other Wilderness lodges). The bush plane flies at low altitude over golden-grassed floodplains, framed by lush palm islands, that are inhabited by a staggering variety of wildlife which can be observed from a bird’s-eye perspective. For the flights, Wilderness uses its own fleet of Cessna aircraft. Wilderness Air has gained a reputation for steadfast operations and excellent guest service, respected for its varied fleet of light aircraft suited to land on dirt airstrips in remote areas and for its team of passionate, professional pilots dedicated to guests’ safety, comfort, and satisfaction. In Maun, guests awaiting their flights or transfers have full access to the Wilderness Lounge, which is located in a building adjacent to the airport. The lounge offers seating and dining facilities in its fully air-conditioned space. Wi-Fi, showers, snacks and drinks.

Wilderness Vumbura Plains is made up of two satellite safari camps – North Camp and South Camp – which are run semi-independently and connected by an elevated, timber walkway that hangs over the floodplain. Although North and South Camp have a slightly different layout, they both are very similar in design and feature identical facilities. Each camp comprises seven large pool suites: all suites at the South Camp are single bedroom suites while two of the seven suites at North Camp are designed with families in mind (each with two bedrooms). At the heart of both camps is a communal pavilion, with large indoor and outdoor living & dining areas, a bar and sunken lounges. Both camps encompass expansive vistas across the vast floodplains and its native wildlife.

Wilderness Vumbura Plains underwent an extensive refurbishment of its exteriors and interiors in 2022. All furniture was replaced or enhanced to blend into the African bush, resulting in a refreshed look and feel that showcases a sense of place and culture. The camp’s stylish design is best described as modern, organic and minimalist, with various design elements bringing nature inside. The open-sided lounges at both camps boast artwork, screens, and maps on the Delta’s formation and the vast range of life it supports. One entire lounge wall is hung with colorful locally woven baskets, whose diverse patterns tell different stories or depict particular animal patterns. The camp’s muted earth color palette flows in shades of turquoise, blue, purple, and green, paying homage to the surrounding wilderness.

Wilderness Vumbura Plains’ 14 luxury suites are split equally between noth satellite camps (North & south Camp), with all suites spaced well apart and raised up on decks. Each suite features a large outdoor deck with a shaded lounge area, some sun beds, and a plunge pool. Inside, each suite features high thatched ceilings, a huge kingsize bed, a sunken lounge area, and an ensuite open-plan bathroom with double vanity and indoor- & outdoor showers. Enlarged underwater photographs by Andrea Crawford adorn clad wardrobe doors and shower screens. Redesigned doors and windows throughout maximise expansive views of the floodplains, ilala palms, and small islands. The suites feature all five star facilities you’d expect in a top-notch lodge, such as WiFi and a mini bar, stocked full of complimentary beers, wine, and spirits.

All meals at Vumbura Plains are included in the room rate. The lodge’s cuisine is closely aligned with traditional local fare. The scrumptious dining options celebrate the delicious local, seasonal ingredients of the region, its traditions and Wilderness’ partnerships with the local farmers, suppliers and artisans. Ingredients are purchased locally, thereby reducing the food miles inherent in every meal, and providing neighboring communities with an alternative revenue stream. Each meal is a journey into the culture and traditions of the people of northern Botswana, while in-camp interaction with chefs and service staff brings the stories and proverbs associated with each dish to life. Signature dishes use the traditional powdered root of the Okavango waterlily, ‘tswii’. Local ‘phapata’ bread cooked over the morning camp fire is an early morning safari staple.

The 60 000-hectare Vumbura Plains Private Wilderness Area is leased from five villages through the Okavango Community Trust (OCT), a partnership that spans 20 successful years of impactful conservation tourism in the area. The benefits of revenue generation, job creation, and alternative sources of income are shared with its neighboring rural stakeholders. The OCT was formed in 1996 to represent the interests of the camp’s five neighbouring villages – Seronga, Gunotsoga, Eretsha, Beetsha and Gudigwa – in the eastern panhandle of the Okavango Delta. In co-operation with the Botswana Government and various stakeholders, it distributes funds for community upliftment and aid to these remote northern communities. More than 150 employees from OCT villages are employed across Wilderness camps.

Vumbura’s prolific wildlife and varied habitats – mopane, acacia woodland, floodplains and permanent swamp – offer guests an exciting year-round water- and land-based activities in the Okavango Delta with extraordinary game viewing. Wilderness experiences include day and night game drives in 4WD safari vehicles, bush walks and mokoro rides (dugout canoes), as well as scenic helicopter flights and hot air ballooning. It makes Vumbura Plains one of the most exclusive destinations in the Okavango Delta for the discerning adventure-seeker. Vumbura Plains’ unique community concession agreement means that many of the professional guides here grew up in this area, adding an extra layer of authenticity and cultural relevance to their expert tracking and identification skills. Each and every guest’s experience is tailored to suit their particular interests.

Wilderness Vumbura Camp is managed by Wilderness Safaris, one of my favorite safari companies. Wilderness was founded in 1983 in Botswana by two young guides, who wanted to ensure both conservation of wildlife areas and that the financial benefits of their safaris flow to Botswana and its people. Today, Wilderness Safaris is widely acclaimed as the continent’s foremost ecotourism operator, dedicated to conserving and restoring Africa’s wilderness and wildlife. They do this by creating life-changing journeys in some of the most remote and pristine areas in Africa, hereby helping to conserve Africa’s spectacular biodiversity and share ecotourism’s benefits with the local communities. Jao can be combined with a stay at Wilderness’ other lodges in Botswana to create an authentic and evocative desert experience, from Jao and Mombo to DumaTau in the far north.

CONS & THINGS TO KNOW

Contrary to other Wilderness premium safari camps in Botswana (DumaTau, Jao and Mombo), Vumbura Plains does not feature communal wellness- and leisure facilities, such as a pool area, spa or gym. The idea is that guests relax at their enormous suites in between safari activities, where they can enjoy their private plunge pools overlooking the flood plains. And while there isn’t a dedicated spa, guests can request in-tent massage treatments (at an additional cost). These safari massage treatments are quite popular, so be sure to book your session when you arrive. The suites at the camp also include a gym-in-a-basket, consists of an exercise mat, weights and resistance bands. And while there aren’t dedicated leisure facilities at the lodge, don’t miss out on the superb curio shop (located between North & South Camp) as it’s one of the best in Botswana.

The suites at Wilderness Vumbura Plains are spaced well apart along the boardwalk, so this can mean long up-and-down walks when you’re staying in one of the suites further away from the main lodge. If you have difficulties walking, make sure to inform the staff upfront and request a suite closer to the main lodge.

Wilderness Vumbura Plains is not fenced off, so guests are required to be vigilant at all times. Leopards, lions, buffalos, and elephants are present in the Okavango Delta, and there is no physical impediment to them entering the area around the lodge. Under no circumstances are guests allowed to walk around the lodge at night, unless accompanied by a staff member. Do not worry though as it’s all part of the excitement of being immersed in a true African safari.

Wilderness Vumbura Plains can only be reached by small aircraft, either from Maun (30 min flight) or directly from one of the other Wilderness Camps in the area. The thought of flying in a small one-engine plane can make some travelers – including myself – nervous. That said, the flight itself is spectacular and offers phenomenal views of the delta, with wildlife gathering or galloping below. Also, Wilderness Air – the flying wing of Wilderness – is respected for its varied fleet of light aircraft suited to land on dirt airstrips in remote areas and for its team of passionate, professional pilots dedicated to guests’ safety, comfort, and satisfaction. And Wilderness Air offer more than just a connection, flying carefully orchestrated circuits maximizing the time of guests in the Okavango Delta. For example, when moving from one lodge to another, you’ll never have to backtrack via Maun and flight times are always between 11 am and 4 pm, allowing you, for instance, a morning’s dreamy mokoro ride in one lodge followed by an adventurous afternoon game drive in another lodge.

Malaria is common in the northern parts of Botswana such as the Okavango Delta (where Wilderness Vumbura Plains is located) and Chobe areas, particularly during or after rainy season from November to April. Medications can be used to prevent the chances of contracting malaria. For advice on the use of any malaria prophylaxis, you need to contact the health authorities or your local travel clinic prior to your travels. In addition to any prophylactics, the following mitigation measures are recommended: cover your arms, legs and feet in the evenings and apply a mosquito repellent containing DEET.

MY VERDICT

Location: 10/10
Design: 8/10
Pool: 9/10 (only private plunge pools)
Rooms: 9/10
Food: 9/10
Breakfast: 8/10
Spa: 8/10 (only in-room treatments)
Service: 10/10
Wow factor: 9/10
Value for money: 10/10
Overall experience: exceptional 9/10

TIPS FOR FUTURE GUESTS & SAVE MONEY

Itinerary tip: My exact itinerary with Wilderness in Botswana – which included a stay at Jao, Vumbura Plains and DumaTau safari camps – can be found here (this site also allows you to book the same trip).

Save money: read here my tips for getting the best deal at a luxury hotel like Wilderness Vumbura Plains Camp (and/or receive many free perks).

Read my tips for preparing your trip in time.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

Wilderness Vumbura Plains offers year-round safari activities. While each season brings a unique appeal, wildlife numbers are concentrated between June and October. These drier months also allow for seasonal game drive opportunities.

The best time to visit the Okavango Delta is during the dry season from June to September. Although called the ‘dry season’, the water levels of the Okavango Delta are at their highest point in these months as the flood waters are arriving from Angola, with animals flocking to the waters from the dry hinterland. This is also when many camps can offer water activities (e.g. boat rides, mokoro tours). Going by the rule of thumb, water in the Delta starts to flow in June (when it arrives from the Angolan Highlands), while by the end of August, most of the water has passed through the Delta and water levels start to drop again.
In the summer months (December to February), the temperatures are soaring and thundershowers are frequent. During this time of the year, some areas in the delta become waterlogged, making road travel challenging and airstrips trickier to traverse. That said, excellent game viewing can be enjoyed in the summer months too, in the right areas with good resident game and permanent water channels. Also, if you are a birder, the best time to visit the Okavango Delta is generally during the summer months when the Okavango is bursting with resident and migratory birds.

HOW TO GET THERE

Wilderness Vumbura Plains can only be accessed by light aircraft into the nearby Jao Airstrip, which has daily flight connections with all other camps in Okavango, Linyanti, Maun Airport (which is the main tourist getaway to Botswana) and north to Kasane (for connections to Livingstone and Victoria Falls). Wilderness takes care of booking all transfers and flight.