Schloss Elmau, Germany, Hotel Review

“You have a qi deficiency.”

“A what?”

“A qi deficiency,” reaffirmed Dr. Imke König, her kind yet firm tone bordering on maternal. A tall, soft-spoken woman who glides rather than walks—that’s years of tai chi practice, under the belt—Dr. König is the medical spa director at Schloss Elmau, Luxury Retreat & Hideaway. The hotel is a family-friendly resort tucked in a remote pocket of the Bavarian Alps. I was clearly not the first stressed, multi-tasking, frequent-flier she had seen in her office.

During our traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) consultation at the Badehaus Spa, one of several wellness facilities at Schloss Elmau, Dr. König took a look at the texture, color, and shape of my tongue, a TCM routine for diagnosing health issues. One glance and she could see that I was exhausted: my qi, or energy, had been sapped. We discussed how to tweak my diet by eating easy-to-digest stewed meats, and drinking water that was room temperature to avoid shocking the system. To sleep better? I needed to meditate, or switch off my brain lying by a pool, breathing in restorative mountain air: all easy enough to accomplish at a place like this one.

One of Germany’s most coveted stays, and a true, family-friendly center for wellness, Schloss Elmau consists of two separate and distinct hotels. Opened in 2015, the Retreat is a polished, contemporary take on an Alpine chalet; the 47-suite property is also so secure, it has hosted heads of state–twice–for the G7 Summit. (President Barack Obama and Chancellor Angela Merkel were famously photographed chatting here in 2015, as the American president relaxed on a bench, the snow-capped mountains in the distance.)

The Retreat features plenty of fireplaces; oiled oak parquet floors; and russet red and gold tones, in everything from the curtains to the couches. I was surprised to see elephants, representing the Hindu symbol of Ganesha, popping up on pillowcases, even on red linen headboard on the suite my family shared. “Ganesha is the first son and gatekeeper of Shiva, and the god of wisdom and travel,” explained Dietmar Mueller-Elmau, the resort’s CEO and owner, who lives on the 300-acre nature reserve. After one conversation with Mueller-Elmau, it was clear to me that there was often a story behind even the resort’s tiniest details.

The neighboring Hideaway is more of a traditional Bavarian structure. Elmau’s grandfather built the property in 1916, adding a wood-beamed concert hall to attract renowned musicians, dancers, and artists. Though the Hideaway (and the concert hall) was destroyed in a fire, it was all painstakingly rebuilt in 2007. Features include 100 stylish rooms; a German-language bookstore; Ikigai, a Michelin two-star restaurant; and family antiques scattered throughout the winding hallways and corridors.

I found that both the Retreat and the Hideaway fit the bill when it comes to many things travelers crave these days, whether it’s premium wellness experiences; a secure property where the kids can roam free; and value, with Germany being a more wallet-friendly alternative to Italy or France. Here is what it is like to stay at Schloss Elmau–the perfect jumping off point for a larger road trip through Bavaria.

The Rooms

“Quiet luxury” is a fitting description for the rooms at the Retreat, which have luxe touches such as Schramm beds and B&B Italia furniture designed by Antonio Cetterio and Patricia Urquiola. But these spaces also allow for touches of whimsy. A Schloss Elmau quirk that I loved? The plush, colorful robes, available in various crayola colors. Wearing a bright yellow one while having my morning coffee made me realize how bland and boring a standard white bathrobe can be.

My family and I stayed at the Retreat, which has a variety of room categories, ranging from family-suites with bunk beds to classic double rooms, valley suites with separate living areas and yes, “Presidential Summit” suites, which have welcomed heads of state. Our Summit Suite–where French President Emmanuel Macron has stayed–provided a spacious living room in which to relax, as well as a generous dressing room and bathroom, complete with a freestanding tub. I suggest requesting a south-facing room, so that you have smack-on views of the Wetterstein Mountains, beautifully shrouded in mist in the early hours of the day.

The 100-room Hideaway is slightly larger and more affordable, with artist studios starting at 220 square feet. Still, you’ll find many of the same amenities as the Retreat (Bavarian stone bathroom floors; those chic red linen headboards). The larger suites and apartments in the Wetterstein wing are ideal if you are traveling in a group.

Culinary Experiences

There are nine restaurants, four lounges, and two bars at Schloss Elmau, serving everything from fondue to sushi to the most divine salted bread rolls and local cheeses, which we happily gorged on at the Retreat’s buffet breakfast. The must try is Ikigai, on the lower level of the Hideway. As we arrived for dinner with our young son, Bobby, I couldn’t help but notice the warmth of the roaring fireplace, allowing for easy conversation in the intimate room: this wasn’t the staid environment you might expect from your typical Michelin two-starred restaurant.

Christoph Reiner runs the show at Ikigai, fusing French and Japanese flavors, and on the evening we dined, he was collaborating on a special menu with his friend Sven Elverfeld, the chef behind Aqua, a Michelin three-starred restaurant in Wolfsburg. The two colleagues worked the room, chatting easily with every table. Rainer turned out organic foie gras, accompanied by jelly of black cherry and kombu vinegar, as well as a Portuguese gamba, with a kanzuri (Japanese chili paste) crustacean bisque. For his part, Elverfeld turned out his signature: saddle of lamb with spicy couscous, pomegranate, and sesame. Wine pairings were excellent, and included many from the region such as the 2017 Gloria chardonnay from Burgenland, Austria. We were invited to tour the kitchen after dinner, marveling how such intricate dishes could be turned out quickly in such a small space.

We also had an outstanding meal at Summit Tutto Mondo, a chic indoor-outdoor spot located on the lobby level of the Retreat. For his regionally focused menu, chef Philipp Schlosshauer takes care to source his ingredients from the surrounding farms and purveyors, with specialties such as balsamic vinegar from Wolfurt, or saddle of venison from the Tyrol and Bavarian pre-Alps, noted on the cleverly illustrated menu. By contrast, Fidelio, a more expansive restaurant at the Hideaway, specializes in Pan-Asian cuisine.

Wellness

Ready for a massage and meditation? A challenging mountain bike ride? Or how about gaga (a style of movement and dance)? Schloss Elmau takes a physical, spiritual, and intellectual approach to wellness that is all encompassing. Guests are spoiled for choice in terms of the indoor and outdoor activities, as well as spa facilities (there are six, with three being family-friendly). The best thing to do is sign up for what you are feeling ready for, get a little experimental, and don’t overthink it.

At the Retreat alone, there were three stunning outdoor pools—two welcoming to kids—with the hills and surrounding forests providing the ultimate backdrop. Fresh off a plane, my family and I ran right to the jungle gym and play area by the Ferchenbach Creek, which runs at the base of the Retreat, with little sunbathing pods set up for privacy. Guests would occasionally wander over to dip their toes in the water, or pop into the sheltered sauna; weather permitting, it’s a short 30-minute walk to a nearby lake for a swim.

At the Hideaway, I was able to try a full Oriental Hammam experience that rivalled anything in Turkey and Morocco; my son, husband and I were also able to take advantage of the indoor family pool, as well as a tai chi lesson with Dr. König. My son, Bobby, also sampled a “mini” shoulder and back massage, something many properties shy away from–but not here, where kids ages six and older can experience the facilities and treatments. (One spot that is decidedly adults-only: the Sunset Pool at the Badehaus Spa, noted as clothing optional.)

In the last few years, there’s been a major shift in the discussion around mental health. Schloss Elmau was ahead of the curve in this respect, focusing on cultural events and dialogue as a way to nurture the mind. “Schloss Elmau has been celebrating, for more than a century now, a unique tradition of concerts and festivals with the great artists of our time,” said Mueller-Elmau, who is deeply involved in all the programming. “Good music is a mental detox and the ultimate well-being experience for the mind and soul.”

As a guest, you could drop in on a classical music concert at their state-of-the-art hall (Gautier Capuçon, the renowned French cellist, was in residence during our stay). There are film screenings and book readings held throughout the property. The thoughtful activities even extend to the kids’ club, where little ones can drop in on manga sketching classes and photography workshops. One unusual outing that got Bobby out of his comfort zone was a soccer lesson-slash-hangout with a local children’s sports team, just off property. He didn’t speak German, they didn’t speak English–and everyone got along just fine.

Sustainability and Accessibility

Schloss Elmau puts environmentally friendly practices at the forefront, sourcing mountain spring water for the guest rooms; biodegradable and non-toxic cleaning supplies; and recycled soap bars, produced by a local charity that works with the disabled community, in the guest rooms. The Hideway is also not air-conditioned, while the Retreat uses a noiseless inductive cooling system. Heat is produced by burning wood waste and chips, sourced from the nearby forests. Electricity is produced from solar energy, wind power, and the resort’s own hydroelectric plant.

At the Retreat, all rooms and public areas are accessible; due to the historic nature of the Hideaway (part of it is a landmarked national monument), certain guest rooms and public areas are only accessible via stairs.

Location

The easiest way to get to Schloss Elmau is to fly into Munich International Airport, a major European hub, and then rent a car and drive approximately 90 minutes due south. Schloss Elmau is also a great jumping off point for exploring Bavaria’s beautiful lakes; small towns, such as Garmisch-Patenkirchen, a hub for skiing come winter; and castles, including the world-famous Neuschwanstein, the turreted, fantastical palace of King Ludvig II. Up for a longer road trip? The hotel makes for an excellent first, restorative stop as part of a larger itinerary, combining Austria and northern Italy.

Getting the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Both hotels at Schloss Elmau participate in the Leading Hotels of the World and the American Express Fine Hotels & Resorts programs, entitling members to complimentary breakfast, upgrades and early check-in or late checkout, upon availability.