At La Semilla, you may not find mainstream brands like Tito’s Vodka, but you will learn about local distilleries and farms they partner with, such as Grow Where You Are. Trapani believes it is their responsibility to educate their community about their choices and to set an example of high-quality, plant-based local sourcing. They are committed to advancing dining standards and sustainability, and Trapani is confident that this shift is underway in their community.
In celebrating a decade in Atlanta, Cooke reflects on their journey and the impact it has made. The essence of their mission, encapsulated in their name, is to inspire others to “grow where you are” and to be a catalyst for broader growth and change. Cooke says, “for anybody who has a touch point with us, similar to La Semilla, it should be the starting point of something bigger…and it should be the place where you start to think more about how we eat, think more about who our money goes to, how to form partnerships, how to deal with our waste streams…”.
A key differentiator for Grow Where You Are is their selective approach to collaborating with chefs. They work with a diverse range of culinary professionals, from those who have turned to healthier eating after personal losses to those who seek exceptional ingredients. “We’re looking to be a place where people check in for quality and integrity”, states Cooke. This commitment ensures that every dish prepared with their produce affirms those distinguishments.
Unlike many farms at markets where customers may interact with staff who aren’t involved in the farming process, Grow Where You Are prides itself on direct engagement with the actual farmers. This personal connection reinforces their dedication to authentic, high-quality produce and transparent farming practices.
As they’ve continued their mission, the integration of their products with the Medicinals created by Earth Rich Herbs exemplifies their cooperative approach. Nicole, for instance, can proudly share that the herbs used in her products are grown and harvested at their peak by her from the farm. While many botanical apothecaries source herbs online, both Grow Where You Are and Earth Rich Herbs ensure their offerings are of unparalleled quality due to their hands-on, peak-harvest approach. Their intention remains to foster fruitful, abundant, and healthy partnerships, reflecting their ongoing commitment to excellence.
What are some challenges you face buying locally?
“The floor of locality is already superior to your average”, says Trapani, alluding to a previous instance at La Semilla when after purchasing another farm’s locally grown parsley, Cooke and Bluh delivered their parsley during the middle of service. Due to its remarkable quality, Trapani decided to stop service for 10 minutes to change the parsley they were previously using on their Lion’s Mane Dish for Grow Where You Are’s parsley. Trapani uses this story to highlight one challenge in buying locally, and that is product variability between local producers that can make it difficult for restaurants to offer a consistent high-quality dish. Local produce can sometimes be harvested early or late, affecting its taste and usability, which requires the restaurant to adapt and sometimes delay service.
Another challenge La Semilla faces is the logistical aspect of coordinating deliveries with local producers. With the restaurant having a set menu and specific preparation needs, consistent delivery schedules are crucial. Variations in delivery times can disrupt planning and require adjustments, such as changing menu items, communicating with staff members and guests about changes, or absorbing higher costs from different suppliers who may charge various prices for the same product.
Climate issues also pose a significant challenge. Consequently, if a farmer’s crop is affected by adverse weather, the restaurant may need to find alternative sources or adjust menu offerings, which can also be inconvenient and costly.
These situations often require open communication between farmers and chefs, and that can be out of the norm for the current standard of restaurant procurement that tends to value the convenience and short communication typical of working with large aggregators. With both parties consistently expressing their needs and offering feedback, they can find mutually beneficial solutions. These solutions can help create a resilient local food system.
Despite these challenges, the benefits of local sourcing are undeniable. The quality and longevity of locally grown produce often surpasses that of mass-produced items. The restaurant values its partnerships with local farmers and approaches these challenges with empathy and flexibility, understanding that some factors are beyond anyone’s control. Working with slow and local food requires a level of patience that isn’t commonly represented in America’s mainstream food system.
What are some of the challenges you all face growing and selling locally?
Bluh answers by describing how growing and selling locally in Atlanta presents a unique set of challenges for their business. As an urban farm, operating across multiple sites in the city involves dealing with transportation logistics and the steep cost of living in the Atlanta area vs. a rural location. Additionally, balancing a busy schedule that includes educational and farm work while managing these logistical issues is a constant juggling act.
Despite these obstacles, they view challenges as opportunities. For instance, expanding their market attendance at Freedom Farmer’s Market and working closely with clients like La Semilla, who exclusively sources Lemon Verbena from Grow Where You Are, helps them manage excess produce effectively. Trapani makes it a point to consistently check in with the farmers as well after they sell at the farmer’s market to help with offloading any produce that may be leftover.
Bluh mentions some barriers to scaling up conventionally like their commitment to using only the herbs grown on their farm sites, “I can’t always make the product I want to make because the herb hasn’t gotten mature enough.” referring to her business, Earth Rich Herbs. Bluh makes it a point to harvest herbs for her products at their peak. Cooke adds another challenge to scaling up being the reality of needing more land to grow, which requires significant investment. Meanwhile, their focus remains on maintaining strong client relationships and adapting to the evolving market. Cooke makes a point that supporting local farmers and understanding their constraints helps customers appreciate the value of their purchases and the efforts behind them.
In what ways do you believe your partnership contributes to a more resilient and equitable food system?
“I think everybody here can name some example of just being screwed by a vegan restaurant or vegan food in some capacity. Like, I can’t believe that this costs this much? You know what I mean?… And the unfortunate side of that is the fact that whether it’s a product or whether you’re spending more time, the amount of time I spend in this building and prepping food, I don’t charge for my time”, says Trapani. He goes on to talk about how he thinks of himself as an employee although he is the owner when maneuvering, and this helps Trapani to ensure he is upholding realistic standards for his team and himself. This way of thinking also influences the way Trapani prices food at La Semilla, and he mentions that the average amount someone spends there is $33. With that, patrons with various financial abilities can fully enjoy the restaurant experience while also tipping staff appropriately. They strive to keep costs accessible, avoiding the common practice of inflating prices to cover premium ingredients or services. This approach supports a diverse customer base while ensuring the long-term viability of their business.
Additionally, Trapani prioritizes purchasing from smaller, local farms, even if it means spending more than with larger suppliers. They consciously choose to support these smaller operations, recognizing their struggles and valuing their contributions to the local food ecosystem. This practice not only promotes equity by providing financial support to less well-known farms (who may not have the infrastructure or marketing capacity that larger farms have) but also strengthens the community by fostering relationships with local producers. At La Semilla they make sure to communicate about these local partnerships with the staff and, importantly, the customer. Overall, the partnership’s focus on affordability, local sourcing, and equitable spending helps build a more inclusive and resilient food system.
Next, Cooke explains, “When it comes to how we are contributing to a more equitable food system…this is something we have been communicating to organizations like Georgia Organics for years…supporting Grow Where You Are is automatically supporting the people who are doing the work, and the people who are what they would call marginalized.” Grow Where You Are is a proudly Black-Owned and majority Woman-Operated business that has uplifted many underrepresented individuals in the agricultural community for over a decade. Founded on principles of equity, the organization extends this commitment to fairness through their apprenticeships, by paying above-average wages to reflect the demanding nature of the work and to attract and retain talent.
A concrete example of their impact is illustrated by a former trainee who now leads an organization with substantial funding. Even with her success and organizational growth, she continues to consult Grow Where You Are for urban agriculture training opportunities, highlighting the ongoing need for increased food production. Grow Where You Are places a strong emphasis on developing new growers and providing training for young people interested in farming. As Cooke notes, “everything that Grow Where You Are puts in the ground is already sold,” demonstrating their commitment to ensuring their produce reaches those in need as well as their limited capacity. Their goal is not only to meet current demand but also to inspire and cultivate the next generation of farmers, thereby ensuring long-term equity and sustainability in the food system.
In conclusion, the partnership between Farmer Champion chefs and regenerative urban farmers in Atlanta exemplifies a powerful model for cultivating a more equitable and resilient food system. This collaboration between Reid Trapani of La Semilla and Eugene Cooke and Nicole Bluh from Grow Where You Are highlights how shared values of food sovereignty, justice, and sustainability can drive meaningful change. Cooke’s emphasis on supporting marginalized individuals and maintaining equitable employment practices through Grow Where You Are demonstrates a deep commitment to fairness and community upliftment. Trapani’s approach at La Semilla reflects a dedication to affordable, high-quality, and locally-sourced food, reinforcing the importance of equitable pricing and support for smaller farms.
