Virginia Is for Wine Lovers — Here’s Where to Go and What to Drink

If someone shouted “Virginia” in the middle of a word-association game, “fine wine” might not be your first response. Even some of the state’s winemakers confessed to me that they had, in the past, found many Virginian wines forgettable — or, in some cases, undrinkable. Oh, how times have changed. 

Being an underestimated wine region for so many years has turned out to be one of Virginia’s superpowers. If all eyes have been focused on Napa Valley or the Bordeaux region of France, Virginia’s wines land somewhere in the middle, geographically and stylistically. Young winemakers, especially, have been expanding their knowledge and skills and creating an identity found only there. 

The industry’s growth is astounding: in the mid 1990s, there were about 50 wineries in Virginia; there are now around 300, with more than 4,000 acres under cultivation. Wine contributes more than $1.7 billion to the state’s economy, not only from sales but also from visitor experiences at wineries, hotels, and restaurants. I wanted to find out if the Virginia wine story was about more than just quantity. We all know the slogan “Virginia Is for Lovers.” But is it for wine lovers? 

Every wine trip needs a home base, and for the first leg of my journey, mine was Salamander Middleburg, less than 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. Middleburg is not just wine country; it’s also the heart of Virginia’s equestrian culture, and Salamander— stately and elegant, with a patina of old money — is a hymn to all things equine. The walls are lined with on-theme artwork, and guests can ride horses from the fully equipped stables. As riders strutted through the lobby in exquisite gear, I couldn’t help wondering: Have I been transported to a Ralph Lauren fashion show?

But you don’t need to be a member of the horsey set to enjoy a stay at Salamander. There’s a gym, a spa, bikes available to borrow — and an entire wine region on your doorstep to explore.

I began my journey just about a mile down the road at Boxwood Estate Winery. John Kent Cooke, former owner and president of Washington, D.C.’s NFL team, has always had a love for Bordeaux, so at his estate, 26 acres are planted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and other Bordelais varieties. In partnership with French wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, the Boxwood team has created a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, as well as its locally known Topiary blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot — all varieties that express the terroir of Virginia.

French wine making was a recurring theme during my tastings. “White Burgundy is my go-to,” said Jim Law, founder of Linden Vineyards. A 35-minute drive west of Middleburg, this winery is renowned for its single-vineyard bottlings of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Bordeaux-style blends. 

Law’s name kept popping up in conversation with winemakers, and I soon realized it’s because he is considered one of Virginia’s most influential winemakers. He’s known for experimentation — testing new varieties and planting vines in different soils or on varying slopes. When I arrived in mid-September, Law and his team were in the thick of it: grapes were being harvested, and time is precious when the fruit is ready to be picked.

Linden is not a sleek and glamorous winery, and that’s how Law likes it. Originally from Ohio, he’s focused on the grit of farming and, in his words, “understanding the personality and nuance” of each of the hills he grows on. He also admits to being “emotionally attached” to his fruit. That passion was detectable in the glass of Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay I tasted later in my trip: I could sense the Burgundian influence in the balanced flavors, but this was no imitation. It was an expression of the steep rocky slopes and granite soils of Hardscrabble, one of Linden’s three vineyards. 

Beyond his own vines, Law praised the diversity and experimental nature of Virginia wine making as a whole. There is room for everyone to do their own thing, he told me. 

Rutger de Vink, a Law protégé, is another winemaker who is steadfast in his own practice. After years of searching, de Vink, a former Marine, found the ideal spot to grow grapes: on a former cattle farm in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. He laughed heartily when he shared that a farmer had teased him for “buying a pile of goddamn rocks.” 

Apparently, de Vink found the equivalent of wine-making gold in those rocks, because, in June, his RdV Vineyards announced that it had been acquired by Eutopia Estates, the venerable French company owned by the Bouygues family. Its holdings include Château Montrose and Château Tronquoy in Bordeaux. The vineyard’s new name, Lost Mountain, pays homage to its location on a historic mound where George Washington surveyed what we now know as the Blue Ridge Mountains. (Lost Mountain was also the name of RdV’s flagship wine.)

The name may have changed, but the rocky land remains the heart and soul of the wine, giving it the character and gravitas necessary to bring de Vink’s vision of creating an “American Grand Cru” to fruition. Today, the Lost Mountain vintage has a devoted following: there’s a two-year wait for its $225-a-bottle blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. 

After adding myself to the list, I decided to book a tour and tasting at the winery, where sommelier Karl Kuhn and founding winemaker Joshua Grainer can often be found sharing their knowledge with guests. “We don’t need people to come through the door, but we want to share the experience,” said Grainer, who is also a Master of Wine, as designated by the Institute of Masters of Wine in the U.K. (Only 416 people in the world have this title, which is considered to be one of the highest distinctions in the industry.)

When I arrived at my next stop, Early Mountain Vineyards, in Madison, just outside Shenandoah National Park, I saw a diverse group of diners, including a feisty quartet of senior citizens, a mom on the deck with a baby in a stroller and a dog at her feet, and a group of co-workers enjoying lunch. Attracting visitors beyond the wine making is part of the point: there’s a full-service restaurant and a robust events space. With more than 55 acres, founder Jean Case, a former AOL executive and philanthropist, did not play it safe when she decided to open Early Mountain. 

Looking at the wine list, I was stunned by the number of grapes Early Mountain works with: I counted 11. The state has some geological advantages that make it a hospitable landscape for a seemingly endless parade of grapes: its wide variety of soils, such as limestone, sandstone, and granite, each impart different flavor profiles. 

“Mountainside vineyards are key to the quality of Virginia wines because they are well-draining and provide good airflow,” Early Mountain winemaker Maya Hood White told me. Her Quaker Run Cabernet Franc 2020 is a perfect example. It has a grace and classic style reminiscent of Chinon — Cabernet Franc from France’s Loire Valley — but with a touch of New World lushness and vivacity.

The last person I expected to meet during my trip was a winemaker who hailed from Piedmont, in the mountains of northern Italy — home of the iconic Barolo. Although his family has a history in the industry, Luca Paschina wanted to pursue the craft his way, and at Barboursville Vineyards, in Virginia’s own Piedmont region, 30 minutes northeast of Charlottesville, he found the perfect place to do it. The winery is owned by the Zonin family, known for estates throughout Italy. Paschina brings a blend of Old World and New World flavors to the Virginia scene, in tandem with the Zonins’ mutual enthusiasm for cutting-edge wine making.

Paschina’s roots are also revealed in the Barboursville portfolio. He makes an elegant Vermentino, a Nebbiolo, and Paxxito, a sweet wine in the “Passito” style, from air-dried Moscato Ottonel and Vidal grapes. For the complete Barboursville experience, visitors can book a room at its quaint 1804 Inn and pair the wines with the handmade pastas at its Palladio Restaurant. 

Barboursville is the winery where I most strongly felt the richness and complexity of Virginia’s history. The ruins of a building designed by founding father Thomas Jefferson remain on the property, and a portrait of him hangs in the barrel room. As a descendant of enslaved people, my feelings on Jefferson, a well-documented enslaver of human beings from Africa, are complicated — to put it mildly. I’m sure he could never have imagined that someone like me would one day be involved in sharing the beauty of wine. But I share his love of the fermented grape and can’t ignore the significant role he played in the state’s wine-making history. 

Jefferson established two vineyards on his Monticello estate and cofounded Virginia’s first commercial wine company. Adjacent to the portrait, a placard reads: “We could, in the United States, make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kind but doubtless as good.” 

I left Barboursville with my stomach full of house-made pasta and red wine, and my brain abuzz from everything I had learned. When my car pulled up to Keswick Hall, a luxurious resort just 25 minutes from Barboursville, I felt instant relief.

Constructed in 1912, Keswick Hall has had many lives: a private residence, a country club (with an 18-hole golf course designed by Pete Dye), and a hotel designed by the husband of the floral-print queen, Laura Ashley. Acquired in 2017 by Molly and Robert Hardie, co-chairs of the family investment company H7 Holdings, this grand manor reopened in 2021 following a multimillion-dollar renovation. A new wing that was added to the existing Italianate structure increased the room count to 80. On Keswick’s plush Duxiana mattress and Frette linens, I slept as if I didn’t have a care in the world. (The relaxing Rose Diamond Radiance Facial at Keswick’s spa added to my zen state of mind, too.)

Keswick’s restaurant is Marigold by Jean-Georges, created by none other than Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The spacious dining room combines rustic woodwork and glass with stunning views, and the menu puts a creative spin on familiar dishes: pizza with black truffles and roasted cauliflower seasoned with turmeric tahini and pistachio. But the wine list is what stands out. While it’s far-reaching, there are several key offerings from Virginia, including — finally — Linden Vineyard’s Hardscrabble Chardonnay. I had been impatient to taste it since meeting Law, and it was well worth the wait. The wine was balanced and minerally, crisp and juicy, with a lingering finish.

The last day of my short and intense dive into the Virginia wine scene started with a visit to Michael Shaps Wineworks, in Charlottesville. A native New Yorker, Shaps backs his endearing swagger with stellar wine-making credentials. While many of Virginia’s winemakers are passionate about Burgundy, Shaps ups the ante: he studied wine making in that region and owns a winery, Maison Shaps, in Meursault, France. In addition to crafting Virginia wines from the familiar Chardonnay, Viognier, and Merlot, Shaps is constantly innovating. Raisin d’Être, his cheekily named sweet wine, is made from grapes dried in repurposed tobacco barns. And he is passionate about Petit Manseng, a white grape from southwestern France that he describes as “bulletproof” in the vineyard. His Petit Manseng has flavors of grilled pineapple and mango.

I ventured west of Charlottesville to Veritas, in the town of Afton. There’s no other way to put it: on a balmy Friday afternoon, the joint was jumping. During my two-hour visit, I saw bachelorettes, couples, families, co-workers, and many more stream into the large tasting room and outdoor space, and I observed from the side as wedding preparations were set in place.

It’s clear from the expansive space and quality wines that the Hodson family has poured its heart, soul, and resources into the business. This also proves true in its selection of wines, such as the Scintilla sparkling Chardonnay, made in the traditional champagne method. Veritas’s rich and earthy Petit Verdot is also impressive. I booked a specially curated wine-and-food experience that paired the Reserve Chardonnay with smoked salmon, caper relish, and preserved lemon. 

From my conversations with wine makers, it’s clear that creativity is at the core of what’s happening in Virginia. The vintners may find inspiration in other places, but their devotion to understanding their terroir, planting the right grapes, and perfecting the production process has propelled them out of the shadows of other, more established regions. While its leaders are probably too polite to say “I told you so” to the naysayers who doubted Virginia’s potential, they’ve certainly earned the right to do so. To Jefferson’s point, look at us now. 

A version of this story first appeared in the October 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline “American Vintage.”