Visiting This Landmark Hong Kong Hotel Was the Restorative Trip I Didn’t Know I Needed

I haven’t been back to my ancestral home in Hong Kong since 2019, which was a tumultuous trip in and of itself because of the disheartening protests I witnessed first-hand. After five long years, with a global pandemic and my own “pandemic baby” in between, I returned to the city with a renewed determination and desire to reconnect with my cultural roots. (I should also note that as much as I am completely in love with my toddler-age daughter, the trip was also to get a bit of a parental respite, if I’m being honest with myself.)

What I didn’t realize is how my soul would feel so immediately soothed during my stay at The Upper House, a landmark boutique property owned by the Swire Group (whose sister collective includes The Opposite House, The Temple House, and The Middle House). Situated in The Pacific Place, a shopping hub near the maximalist hotels of Shangri-La, Conrad, and JW Marriott, Upper House is a spiritual and physical departure from these superb properties.

Upper House first beckons you in through its timeless Pietra di Bedonia stone façade, up a long escalator, and into another realm of tranquility, thanks to its artistically endowed spaces, all spearheaded by Hong Kong-based interior designer André Fu.

Fu curated a gallery’s worth of sculptures, ceramics, marble, and bronze throughout the hotel’s common areas and rooms. Fu also mindfully selected pieces by talented Asian artists to showcase, with favorites such as the circular yin-yang piece that greets you in the driveway of the hotel by Korean artist Choi Tae-Hoon and the towering 98-foot metal wall sculpture (aptly named “Rise”) by Japanese artist Hirotoshi Sawada on the 38th-floor atrium. The overarching goal for Fu was to have these pieces epitomize his ethos of serenity to guests.

However, the noticeably curious thing about The Upper House is that its characteristics and layout don’t exactly scream ‘hotel,’ which is by (serendipitous) design.

“This was initially built out as a private residence with atrium-style apartments, but once the Swire Group took over, the organization reached out to Fu to transform it into a boutique hotel,” Lili Chu, the senior marketing and communications manager for The House Collective, told me. The Swire Group recognized Fu’s emerging talents and tenacity and took a chance on him and his lofty ideas. “He created what we describe as an ‘upward journey’ into a realm of relaxation, tranquility, and serenity.”

In fact, this property (erected in 2009 but still as clean and modern as ever) is Fu’s original muse, and he often uses it as his show pony to present to current and prospective clients. Completing The Upper House catapulted him to international stardom, garnering critical acclaim and leading to other highly regarded projects such as Bangkok’s Waldorf Astoria and Villa La Coste in Provence, France.

For me, this was the sanctuary I was in dire need of: After a 30-hour journey on three flights, my frayed nerves finally began to calm with the hotel’s soothing amber tones, the scent of ginger verbena permeating the air (the property’s signature fragrance), and calming chimes of the elevator doors.

With one glance, it is apparent that Upper House’s foundational pillars are grounded in holistic and spiritual wellness, but such mantras are never forced upon you. All paths of life are welcomed here, from the healthy to the hedonistic. Some will ardently partake in a hot yoga class in the morning and immerse themselves in a hyperbaric oxygen chamber. At the same time, others from the business district will come in for a meeting over afternoon tea time and devour egg tarts, specialty cakes, and green tea with ravenous satisfaction. In the evening, guests and locals will meander to the 49th floor, greeted by a 130-foot high skylit atrium illuminating the hotel’s respective floors, leading you down a glass bridge into the property’s Sky Lounge. It’s the prime spot to linger over craft cocktails, graze on share plates, and watch the sun cascade over Victoria Harbor.

Here’s my review of what it was like to stay at The Upper House in Hong Kong.

The Rooms

They take the whole ‘upward journey’ philosophy literally here: The hotel is perched atop the JW Marriott, with rooms spanning the 38th through 48th floors. (The 49th level is reserved for the Salisterra restaurant, the bar, and a communal meeting and event space.)

The property has 117 studio-style guest rooms (starting at a generous 730 square feet of space), including 21 suites, a penthouse, and a signature André Fu suite (at 1,960 square feet) complete with dining room, living room, pantry and kitchen area, and personal spa room.

Considering the building was initially intended as a private residence, Fu pays homage to this with furnishings that make it feel like a home away from home. Spaces use natural timber, shoji glass, limestone, and lacquered paper paneling, all beckoning you to touch it (yes, the staff encourages you to feel and have an unadulterated tactile experience here). Layered on top of this are two calming zen-esque color schemes: bamboo coupled with amethyst upholstery and creme oak timber with emerald. Should you fall in love with any of the furnishings and accent pieces, you can purchase and ship them directly to your home via André Fu Living.

Bathrooms here are notably luxe and allocated at least 300 square feet, offering Instagram-worthy free-standing tubs with shimmering views of Victoria Harbour. Top-tier amenities are by Bamford, a holistic and sustainable line of luxury bath and body products that align with Upper House’s belief system.

Food & Drink

Salisterra transports you from Hong Kong Island to the azure shores of the Mediterranean, specifically with epicurean pit stops that range from Spain and France to everywhere in between, thanks to culinary advisor Chef Ricardo Chaneton, who helms Michelin-starred MONO in the Central District.

As Upper House’s flagship restaurant, the all-day restaurant offers sustenance from morning into late night. On the day I visited, I felt the set lunch menus (three courses for around $70) were an excellent value, with highlights such as slow-roasted flank steak and trout terrine. Otherwise, you can get the full scope of their culinary talents with an à la carte dinner menu with favorites such as salt-baked Mediterranean Sea Bass to Share ($165) and grilled ribeye slathered with mustard beef jus and herb butter ($140).

Salisterra Bar, also known as the Green Room, preserves the soul of its sister adjacent restaurant but is more sultry, swathed in jade tones with cozy banquettes, burgundy marble, and a centerpiece emerald-lacquered bar. It’s conducive to light social shenanigans and people-watching but also for refined cocktails like the Salt & Earth (fortified with Olive oil gin, za’atar vodka, fino sherry, and Mancino bianco), local Hong Kong draft beers, and spirit-free options like Saicho Sparkling Tea in jasmine or smoky hojicha flavors. Nibbles can be over-the-top (think a full-fledged caviar experience for $100) or more affordable, like the fritto misto, a golden treasure trove of fried calamari, prawns, and fish.

Located off-property in The Pacific Place is The Continental — a verdant terrace anchored by leather columns, marble tables, and metallic trim — emphasizing European flavors. It offers all-day dining, but my favorite would have to be the indulgent three-course brunch with selections like whiskey porridge and salmon fish cake benedict and a must add-on: their two-hour free-flow wine, with a choice of house prosecco, rosé, red, white, and beer.

There’s also the The Lawn, a secret garden that’s home to activations, pop-ups, and general merriment, and the light-and-airy sixth-floor Tea Room. Unassuming at first (it often doubles as a pop-up retail space), its monochromatic tones of blonde and dusty pink evoke a soothing calm to the soul (and the stomach), especially when you can enjoy more North American staples like acai bowls, smoked salmon wraps, and detox lemongrass smoothies. (The café across the room offers the same menu.)

Activities and Amenities

The Upper House has created a robust health-focused ecosystem by partnering with third-party vendors and businesses that align with its goals, otherwise known as Wellness Residences. Along with the usual suspects (a 24-hour gym and in-room massage and facial treatments), the hotel offers everything from energy healing with Stone & Star, a 55-minute intensive conditioning workout with Family Form, and running and walking tours with local guides.

Family-friendly Offerings

Located inside the Pacific Place Apartment, the Children’s Residency, in collaboration with Bimbo Concept (a kids’ luxury lifestyle store), offers a cornucopia of kid-friendly activations that include Playroom Passes (kid-sized furniture, toys, reading nook), Kindermusik and a chic children’s nail bar that offers manicures with use of water-based nail polish, stickers, and even temporary tattoos.

Hong Kong can be a family-friendly city despite the controlled chaos on the streets, and there are plenty of child-centric museums scattered throughout Hong Kong Island and in Kowloon (the northern part of Hong Kong); additionally, if you plan in advance, there’s a Disneyland on Lantau Island.

Accessibility

Upper House’s Studio70 room offers a bathroom without stairs for ease of access, an emergency call button, bathtub and shower handrails, a shower chair, and an automatic faucet.

Location

This hotel is situated on Hong Kong Island, specifically in the Central Business District (CBD). Because of the sheer traffic congestion in the city, I highly advise against renting a car — most places are accessible by foot, transit, or taxi.

There is a range of shopping, dining, art galleries, heritage neighborhoods, and museum options here (such as The Pacific Place which houses luxury retailers right beside the hotel, or more lowkey Admiralty Centre, which is an eight-minute walk away). Otherwise, Hong Kong Park and the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens GreenHouse are an easy 10-minute walk away. Cultural hallmarks include PMQ Central (a historic building now used for the arts) and Tai Kwun (a former police station converted into an arts and entertainment hub).

Public transit via the city’s Mass Transit Railway (MTR) is quite efficient and economical, but just remember to purchase an Octopus card in advance.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Hotel rates, in general, are at their lowest during the city’s typhoon season (May to September), but if you prefer traveling when it’s not frequently raining with potentially gusty winds, look at the hotel website’s listing of Special Offers. They have a concise roster of package deals, such as a complimentary night on them if you stay three or more nights.

Upper House (and its House Collective of properties) are also a partner of Cathay Pacific, so if you have their Standard Chartered Cathay Mastercard, you can earn points on miles with the airline if using the card to pay for meals and hotel stays. Additional benefits include 25 percent off The House Standard room rate, daily breakfast, and a complimentary round of cocktails.