Voaara Madagascar in Île Sainte-Marie, Madagascar

I’d just been scooped up from the airstrip of Île Sainte-Marie, Madagascar, when a pirate ship halted traffic. A boat transfer along the coast would have been a speedier way to arrive at Voaara Madagascar. Still, I was hoping to get a glimpse of local life before hunkering down on the island’s remote northern shore—but nothing could have prepared me for the spectacle on the streets of Ambodifotatra. Dozens of eye-patched locals waving skull and cross-bone flags paraded past our Jeep as galleon-shaped floats followed. Le Festival des Pirates is an annual celebration of Sainte-Marie’s swashbuckling past and we’d driven straight into the heart of the festivities.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, Sainte-Marie was a popular base for pirates who plundered the Indian Ocean, my driver explained as we made our way past the cemetery where Captain Kidd lies buried. But since the 2024 opening of Voaara, the island is quietly forging a new identity as a laidback escape for travelers searching for the next Seychelles or Mauritius. As the road twisted further north, we left behind the bars and restaurants and drove through sleepy villages. A long stretch of empty, palm and ylang-ylang-fringed coast eventually deposited us in front of a sign that read, “Last Stop Before Paradise.”

Philippe Kjellgren, Voaara’s founder and owner, welcomed me with a freshly shucked coconut and instructed me to kick off my shoes. “This is barefoot luxury,” he said with a wink.

Kjellgren then led me down a sandy path to my room, a bungalow steps from the beach. The sun was just starting to set, and he encouraged me to take a dip in the sea. Floating in the warm, tranquil waters, I looked back to see a lone fisherman walking with his day’s catch along the shore.

After a rinse in the outdoor shower, I followed the glow of twinkling white lights and the soft beat of house music along the sand to Franco’s, Voaara’s beach bar. Named after the resident barman, Franco mixed up his signature piña colada for me, made with fresh pineapple juice, coconut milk, and local rum. Dinner was a private, toes-in-the-sand affair under the stars featuring ceviche, gazpacho with Iberico ham, fried rice, and cauliflower with mojo verde sauce.

The resort fronts a picturesque curve of pearly white sand, but you can continue in either direction along the jungle-hugged shores for more than an hour—the property encompasses around 100 acres of land. I relished my morning ritual at Voaara: a walk at dawn so I could catch the sky’s first blush, then a paddleboard session while the waters were still glassy enough to spot colorful coral, fish, and the occasional turtle.

Kjellegren, a cofounder of the Kiwi Collection (an online luxury hotel booking platform), drew on his favorite touches from some 2,000 hotels he’s visited during his career to create Voaara’s whimsical experiences. “It’s not for everyone,” he said.

But it was certainly for me. This is what it’s like to stay at Voaara Madagascar.

The Rooms

The term “barefoot luxury” gets tossed around a lot, but Voaara strips it back to its true essence. The ultimate Robinson Crusoe-esque retreat, there are just seven bungalows and a three-bedroom villa, which is nestled on a patch of grass just a few steps from the beach; it also has a private pool. Natural materials, such as poured concrete floors, thatched roofs, and driftwood beams sourced from nearby beaches, perfectly complement the tropical setting. Interiors feature locally-made custom wood furniture and funky raffia lights. All of the accommodations have sun beds on the beach, and you can order room service so that you can enjoy breakfast on your patio or on the beach.

As for amenities, you can expect Marshall Bluetooth speakers, Nespresso coffee machines, huge prints by Madagascan photographer Pierrot Men, and Dyson Supersonic hair dryers (though I preferred to let the ocean breeze dry my locks). And if you like the stylish beach bags and hats that are in each bungalow, you can purchase one from the well-curated gift shop. Bathrooms are open to the elements with rainfall showers and double granite basins, and some units even have soaking tubs shaded by lush foliage.

If you’re traveling with children, opt for one of the two-bedroom bungalows or the villa, which provides extra room. However, whichever option you choose to stay in, you’ll be lulled asleep by a soundtrack of palm fronds rustling in the breeze and the gentle rumble of waves lapping the beach.

Food and Drink

Despite being such an intimate stay, Voaara offers a remarkable amount of choice when it comes to dining. Spanish chef Aleixandre Sarrion masterminded the food and beverage program at the hotel and Malagasy chef Jean Notia Vincent has executed his menus flawlessly. The fresh, flavorful dishes are exactly the type of food you would want to eat at the beach.

Choose to dine beneath the soaring, thatched roof of signature restaurant, Le Plage by Sarrion, or on the patio with your toes in the sand. The all-day menu fuses Mediterranean and Asian flavors, highlighting Malagasy ingredients (think giant trevally served with XO sauce). Reservations-only Le Grill has just a handful of tables on the beach set beside an asado where fresh-caught seafood is cooked over coconut husks and served with sides fresh from the garden. Do not skip the lobster.

As the sun starts to set, guests gather at Franco’s—his piña colada is legendary. In addition to the main dining venues, the hotel also hosts sushi dinners at the Bird’s Nest, and you can order wood oven-fired pizzas served at the outdoor cinema. But, if you don’t feel like heading out, you can take any meal from your bungalow, or the staff can arrange an oceanfront meal around a fire pit.

Activities and Amenities

Don’t be fooled by Voaara’s fly-and-flop image. Yes, one could easily spend a day reading a book beneath the shade of a palm tree here, but the resort encourages guests to get out and explore.

Layne, the resident marine biologist and free diver, can take you snorkeling, deep-sea fishing, spearfishing, and even on a whale-watching excursion from June to September. One day during my trip, I joined Layne to spearfish, and we caught a massive mackerel that was later turned into a sashimi lunch. And if you want to learn how to hang ten, in-house prosurfer Willow Hardy can teach you the basics of surfing or foiling. If you’re more experienced, she can take you to a “secret” break that’s a 45-minute boat ride away.

For those that would prefer to stay on land, Voaara has quad bike tours, hikes, and lemur spotting day trips to nearby Kong Island. But no matter how you choose to spend your time, days here often end with massages in the oceanfront spa cabins or by indulging at any of Voaara’s dining venues.

The Spa

Two Indonesian-inspired, open-front thatched cabins at the far end of the beach currently serve as temporary treatment rooms. Instead of an extensive menu, guests make a simple choice between a Swedish or relaxing massage featuring Anoka Botanic oils made right on Sainte-Marie. During my treatment, the massage therapists intuitively applied just the right amount of pressure that my muscles needed. Plans are in the works to build an expansive spa complex, complete with a lap pool, steam room, sauna, and gym. Eventually, there will even be a “spa safari,” which will provide mobile treatments around the property.

Family-friendly Offerings

At first glance, one might think Voaara is a romantic, adults-only retreat. But kids are welcome, and offerings are exceptionally family-friendly. Families can bond over kayak and paddleboard outings, volleyball matches on the sand, as well as pizza and movie nights at the outdoor cinema. The ocean waters are calm and are safe for swimming and snorkeling, too. There are plans to complete an on-site Kids Club by 2025.

Accessibility and Sustainability

Although the accommodations at Voaara are at ground level, they do not have accessible features and are not ADA-compliant. Additionally, guests with mobility issues might find the soft, sandy paths that connect the property challenging to navigate.

As for sustainability, Kjellgren carefully considered community and environmental impact when constructing Voaara. The property runs on solar power and was built primarily using local materials, such as driftwood sourced from nearby beaches. A small kitchen garden and large nursery supplies ingredients for the restaurants, and you often see the chef buying fish from local fishermen right on the beach.

Location

Madagascar is easier to reach than one might imagine. The capital, Antananarivo, is connected to major cities such as Paris, Dubai, Istanbul, and Johannesburg via direct flights through Ivato International Airport (TNR).

Île Sainte-Marie is a one-hour flight from Antananarivo. You could take a Madagascar Airlines flight or you could splurge on one of Voaara’s charters, which runs three times per week. After you arrive in Sainte-Marie, you’ll need to take a 90-minute car ride or an hour-long boat journey along the coast to reach Voaara. For the best of both worlds, I suggest arriving via car so you can take in the local village life and then return by boat.

However, once you’re on the property, you don’t need a vehicle. If you want to get out and explore the rest of the island, Voaara’s staff can arrange a Jeep and driver.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Voaara Madagascar is not a part of any hotel loyalty or luxury travel credit card programs.