What Is A Clarifying Shampoo + When & How To Use It

If you want healthy hair, there’s a long list of possible to-do’s. Limiting the use of hot tools is definitely high up on the list, along with hydrating your strands and, obviously, actually washing your hair every once in a while.

And like skin care, some hair care products are certainly optional, but your hair might look and feel a whole lot better with them. Clarifying shampoos are one of those often overlooked but occasionally hair-saving products.

“A clarifying shampoo is a deep cleanser for the hair and scalp. It is formulated to remove excess buildup from products, impurities, and any residues in the hair and scalp,” stylist and colorist Josie Sanchez tells mbg.

You may hear the names detox shampoo and chelating shampoo too, as they’re all used in generally the same context in casual conversation. While they’re both starkly different from your typical run-of-the-mill shampoo, the true definition of detox shampoo is technically slightly different from clarifying shampoo.

“The main difference lies in the active ingredients in each formula—hair detoxes often rely on natural extracts and oils to remove buildup, while clarifying shampoos typically contain synthetic ingredients such as silicones and sulfates,” certified trichologist, celebrity stylist, and founder of scalp-first hair care brand Act+Acre Helen Reavey tells mbg.

Just as you wouldn’t do a detoxifying face mask every time you wash your face, you shouldn’t use a clarifying shampoo every time your strands get wet. According to Sanchez, these are the general guidelines:

If you wash your hair every other day, then you can use a clarifying shampoo every other week. Your strands are likely more oily, so the risk of excessive dryness is fairly low if you follow this schedule.

If you generally have dry strands, you may want to do an oil treatment (translation: massage a hair oil into your scalp and through your strands) the day before using a clarifying shampoo. This will help your scalp and your strands get a healthy dose of moisture before the deep clean.

Buildup from products like hair spray and dry shampoo can be tacky and hard to kick, even with a strong formula. To make sure you’re getting an efficient clean, use your fingers to work the product into your roots.

Apart from helping you get a deep clean, scalp massage works wonders for the health of your scalp—and research echoes this praise. In fact, in a 2016 study, a small number of men received a daily four-minute scalp massage. At the conclusion of the study, the investigators found an increase in hair thickness1.

“I recommend emulsifying the shampoo in your hair and concentrating the product on your scalp and the back of your head,” Reavey says. Try to avoid rubbing it all the way down to the ends of your hair, as the tips are generally the driest part.

This step is underrated but so important—do not rinse out your hair with steaming hot water. Your scalp is already vulnerable to drying out, and hot water will only make it worse. “It is always best to use lukewarm water on your scalp and strands,” Reavey says.

Here’s the thing—you don’t have to have a strict schedule when it comes to clarifying washes. If you want to keep a product on hand and use it whenever you feel the need, that’s completely fine and, honestly, a great way to think about it. Just be sure not to use it more than twice a month.

“If you have conditions such as excessive dandruff, psoriasis, or scalp eczema, you should be cautious when using clarifying products, as they can further damage and dry out your scalp,” Reavey says.

Important PSA: Do not (we repeat: Do not) use a clarifying shampoo on freshly colored hair. “I would caution those who have recently color-treated their hair to be careful with clarifying shampoos since the product can strip away any color deposit on the hair,” Reavey says.

You’ll want to wait at least two weeks after getting color to use a clarifying shampoo. To be frank, you probably won’t need to use one for a month post-appointment given that your stylist likely gave your scalp a deep cleaning in the salon anyway.

Some people use baking soda and apple cider vinegar as a DIY clarifying shampoo. However, this combination can be stripping for the scalp. This might be tolerable for some, but if you’re prone to dry strands or a dry scalp, it’s best to skip this DIY project.

Clarifying shampoos are hair-focused products, whereas scalp scrubs work on the scalp—obviously. Certified trichologist and hair health expert Shab Reslan breaks this down: “If your hair feels dull, it’s tangling a lot, or you use a lot of styling products daily, you definitely want your clarifying shampoo,” Reslan previously told mbg.

If you take a close look at your scalp and see buildup from hair products, or if your hair continuously feels oily even right after you wash it, then you might want to consider a scalp scrub, Reslan says.

Like the skin on your face and body, your scalp skin has a delicate microbiome as well. When there’s excessive buildup around the follicle, your scalp can’t absorb the nutrients it needs to balance the microbiome and thrive.

Clarifying shampoos can encourage a healthier scalp with proper use by clearing buildup. But, as we said, clarifying shampoos are strong products, and they can throw off the balance of your scalp microbiome if used incorrectly.

Your scalp is full of natural oils that are like food to the microbiome—as in, extremely necessary. So when those oils are fully stripped, that’s when you run into problems.

“When overused, clarifying shampoos can definitely push the scalp microbiome off balance, causing dryness and making the scalp more prone to conditions such as dandruff and irritation,” Reavey warns.