Wednesday, January 8, 2025
HomeTravelWhat It’s Like to Have a 7-hour, 50-course Tasting at One of...

What It’s Like to Have a 7-hour, 50-course Tasting at One of the World’s Most Exclusive Restaurants



Five acts. Seven hours. 50 impressions. Dinner at The Alchemist is much more than just a meal; it’s a transcendent, multisensory experience that challenges your mind, sight, emotions, and taste buds all at once.

Located in the heart of Copenhagen, the two Michelin-starred restaurant is helmed by Rasmus Munk, who was recently named world’s top chef at the Best Chef Awards in 2024. Munk masterminded an extraordinary dining journey that fuses art, storytelling, and gastronomy, aiming to provoke thought and conversation around important social issues.

Chef Ramus Munk with his butterflies.

Courtesy of The Alchemist


Having ranked in the top 10 of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for the past two years, The Alchemist is one of the most sought-after dining reservations (bookings sell out within minutes of being released and there’s consistently a five-digit waiting list), so I am incredibly fortunate to have had the opportunity to experience it.

The concept was born from the success of the original Alchemist, a small restaurant with only 15 seats that Munk operated between 2015 and 2017. Munk recalls the playful experimentation that took place in those early days, where they served an astonishing 45-course menu each night, pushing the boundaries of presentation and flavor.

During that time, he crafted a dish focused on organ donation — a lamb’s heart tartare, served with a sauce in a blood transfusion bag, along with a card encouraging diners to register as organ donors. This became a pivotal moment in his career.

“We created it as a way to raise awareness on how many had lost their lives waiting for a new organ. It resulted in 1,500 new organ donors, and the story about the dish spread very far outside the little restaurant in Copenhagen,” said Munk in an interview with Travel + Leisure. “This was something I wanted to explore further; it was my way to combine my strong commitment to social issues with my passion for cooking. It formed the fundament for holistic dining and later the new Alchemist.”

I could barely contain my excitement as I approached the industrial Refshaleøen neighborhood of Denmark’s capital. After standing in suspense in front of the restaurant’s enormous, embossed bronze doors for a few moments, they slowly opened, marking the beginning of the wildest dining adventure of my life.

The Alchemist experience consists of roughly 50 distinct courses, referred to here as “impressions.” While the majority are edible, others are designed to be solely experiential.

I was greeted by some of the friendliest and most engaging staff I’ve ever encountered. They welcomed me in, offered a damp, scented towel, and provided a brief overview of what to expect, setting the tone for my visit. Afterward, I was led into a dimly lit room to watch a short digital presentation that tapped into the power of AI and modern technology, ending with an Einstein quote projected on the screen: “Imagination is more important than knowledge. For knowledge is limited to all we now know and understand, while imagination embraces the entire world.”

Important to note: Dining here has been on my wish list for years, so I did plenty of research before traveling to Copenhagen. However, some of my favorite moments were totally unexpected surprises I hadn’t seen or read about beforehand. As I share my personal account, I’ll withhold certain details out of respect for the enjoyment of future diners.

“Space Bread” from The Alchemist.

Courtesy of The Alchemist


Following the initial welcome impression, I entered a sleek lounge with several tables arranged around a central bar, all facing a large glass wall that offered a view of a futuristic-looking kitchen lab. There, a team of chefs could be seen meticulously plating dishes. I was thrilled to have a front-row seat to the action.

Let’s do this.

After settling in, I was offered a welcome “cocktail” — a pisco sour that resembled an egg yolk resting in a dainty metal sculpture of a daisy, Denmark’s national flower — and given a choice of wine, cocktail, or mocktail pairings, each option detailed on a digital tablet. (I went with the wine.)

The experience proceeded with a series of ingenious bites, including a cotton candy dumpling filled with fermented fish sauce, the “perfect omelette” that took two years to develop, and caviar-topped space bread, a surprisingly light, charcoal-colored sphere made from aerated aged soy sauce that dissolves instantly in your mouth. Then there was a butterfly.

Yes, an actual butterfly. My jaw dropped as chef Munk personally presented me with a freeze-dried tortoiseshell butterfly perched on a shiny silver log. He believes this could be a sustainable protein source for the future, sharing, “Ounce for ounce, there is nearly double the amount of protein than in beef or chicken.” Although I’ve eaten insects in other parts of the world, this was my first time trying a butterfly. The delicate insect was well seasoned and rested on a crispy leaf made from juiced kale, parsley, and spinach, accompanied by fresh nettle cheese. I took it all down as one crunchy bite.

After several more snacks, guests were led to the second floor and guided across a glass-bottom walkway, where wine cellar racks holding some 10,000 bottles were visible beneath our feet. We entered a dimly lit corridor. Almost magically, the wall slides opened to reveal the most magnificent planetarium-style domed dining room filled with a maze of seating and images projected all around. I was awestruck by the impressive space as I took in the first scene: a vibrant coral reef so lifelike it felt as if I was under the sea.

Though the massive virtual aquarium initially appeared cheerful, I soon noticed litter floating in the water and a turtle swimming with a plastic six-pack ring around its neck, nearly moving me to tears. (Ocean pollution is one of the themes addressed during the experience.) Throughout the meal, this spectacular 360-degree screen displays moving images intended to spark conversation, from a starry galaxy to a beating human heart and an army of synchronized eyeballs.

Now onto the main event. In this central area of the 22,000-square foot restaurant, a mind-blowing succession of edible impressions tackle many of the pressing issues facing the world today — from food waste and sustainability to animal welfare and health care systems. The Alchemist prioritizes important conversations, using food as a medium to provoke thought and educate guests.

The “Plastic Fantastic” dish.

Megan Murphy/Travel + Leisure


“The ultimate goal has always been to change the world through gastronomy,” said Munk. “The restaurant is a platform to raise awareness and to reach out with our messaging.” Diners receive detailed explanations from their servers to understand each dish’s significance, as well as the ingredients and techniques used.

Spotlighting the unfortunate problem of pollution in our oceans, the “Plastic Fantastic” impression is an airy edible vortex made from algae and collagen from fish skin, mimicking a crumpled ball of plastic that conceals a bite of tempura-battered plaice beneath it. “Burnout Chicken,” which addresses irresponsible farming, features a savory chicken lollipop attached to a real chicken foot that’s confined within a small cage. To eat it, you must first set the chicken free.

The “Food For Thought” dish.

Courtesy of The Alchemist


Perhaps the most striking section of impressions is themed around the human body. For example, “Food for Thought” consists of a cherry meringue filled with lamb’s brain mousse and cherry gel, resembling foie gras, presented in a life-sized silicone mold of the top of a human head (complete with pores and eyebrow hairs). Another course, dubbed “1984” after George Orwell’s dystopian novel of the same name, invites diners to scoop caviar from the pupil of an oversized eyeball modeled after Munk’s eye.

The Alchemist’s “1984” dish.

Megan Murphy/Travel + Leisure


Then there’s the provocative “Tongue Kiss” — a silicone human tongue coated with beef tartare and a deep burgundy glaze intended to push guests out of their comfort zones and play with feelings of pleasure and disgust. My server encouraged me to consume it by giving it a French kiss, and when I asked if the tongue was cast from chef Munk’s, she responded with a sly smile. I followed her instructions; it was undeniably a strange sensation. Glancing at other diners’ impromptu make-out sessions was also quite amusing.

Highlighting the fact that a single organ donor can save up to eight lives, “Eight Layers of Life” showcases eight common flavors, including cherry, black olive, and black pepper, and is shaped like a human heart. When I cut into it, the rich color and viscosity of the “blood” seeping out appeared so lifelike that I found it difficult to stomach. Even as an adventurous eater, the realism of this dish challenged my perception of mind over matter. However, not all dishes toyed with my emotions as intensely; some were more straightforwardly delicious.

After savoring several dessert courses, including a flavorful confection that depicted Edvard Munch’s famous painting “The Scream” on an edible canvas and a crispy chocolate bar made from 70 percent traceable Congo cocoa meant to raise awareness about child labor, I was given a smock and disposable shoe protectors. What next?

I joined a small group of diners and was brought into an all-white room accented with colorful graffiti. As Madonna’s “Express Yourself” played loudly through the speakers, an eccentric artist greeted us, handed out jars of brightly hued “paint,” and encouraged us to dance, get creative, and sample the edible lacquer. I joyfully bopped and sang to the music, licked yellow paint off my brush, and added my own touch to the wall.

Just when I thought my night was coming to an end, a few other surprises — along with a handful of petite bites and digestifs — awaited me in an entirely different room, a plush balcony lounge. I didn’t leave The Alchemist until well after midnight, but I could have easily stayed longer. The hours flew by, and surprisingly, I didn’t feel tired or experience the typical food coma after such a lengthy dining adventure. Instead, I felt satisfied and inspired on many levels.

The outrageous expedition comes with a substantial price tag (bookings start at roughly $718, not including beverage pairings), but was it worth it? While I can’t speak for everyone, as a person who is deeply passionate about food and travels for once-in-a-lifetime culinary experiences, without a doubt, it was worth every penny (and every minute). Dining at The Alchemist goes beyond merely enjoying a meal; it offers an opportunity to engage with deeper narratives through food while being immersed in Copenhagen’s innovative culinary culture. The entire experience left such a lasting impression on me — one that I will appreciate for the rest of my life.

RELATED ARTICLES

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here

Most Popular

Recent Comments